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Re: engine cuts out
You probably have a fuel line that is cracked or has a hole in it of some sort. You should be able to take off the top cover and inspect these lines. If this is the problem, replace with new line & should work just fine. Let me know how it goes.
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Sounds like the rear pads are worn out, your front brakes are keeping the truck from rolling. You need to have the high rpm checked for that 30-50 seconds as it is called the "cold start routine" and is meant to rev the engine for that time period. There may be an adjustment to keep it from over revving, check the specs for the rpm.
Even if you fix the rear brakes, the stress on the U-joints and differential or transmission is needless and can be fixed by limiting the high rpm in the "cold start cycle".
Faulty idle air control valve.After you replace it you will need to reset the computer by disconnecting the ground cable on the battery for 30 seconds then re-install it and start it up it should run fine.
Yes, it sounds like it is a fuel problem, whether it be the fuel pump, or more probably the catalytic converter. That check engine light can be checked by a mechanic where they can hook up to the engine and get the true error code to know why the light came on. Most often, it is an indicator that there is a problem with the catalytic converter. When that light goes on, the engine usually will run itself at reduced power. This could be why you are stalling when it is idle. Another thought is clogged fuel injectors, can't be sure, bring it to a mechanic for sure.
Sounds like the saw is running lean. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of the fuel lines and that the fasteners on the carburetor are tight. If all ok, turn the 'L' and 'H' jet needles on the carburetor CW to stops (lightly), then back out each 1-1/2 turns CCW. This is a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, pull the throttle full on, and adjust H CW until the engine starts to speed up, but continues to 4-stroke. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. This produces the most power and least heat. Allow to idle and adjust L CW until the engine runs fairly well, yet will allow it to 'follow the throttle'. Set the idle speed screw til the chain stops moving, but keeps the engine running. Hope this helps!
I work for warcks county council, the husky 357xp is our main saw. We've experienced the same problem with many of our new 357's. after many hours of trying to solve the problem (including swapping carbs from old broken saws etc) i stumbled upon, by fluke i'm afraid, a problem with the ngk bpmr7a spark plugs. They seem to work fine for a short period of time (even new out of the box) then leak compression from the cylinder. We are running a esser rated bosh spark plug which seems to have eliminated the problem, (can't remember the number, sorry). We have now ordered champion plugs to replace the stock. Probably worth a try. Hope this is of some help.