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Re: engine cuts out
You probably have a fuel line that is cracked or has a hole in it of some sort. You should be able to take off the top cover and inspect these lines. If this is the problem, replace with new line & should work just fine. Let me know how it goes.
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This sounds like fuel starvation, replace the fuel filter in the fuel tank, if this does not help, when it starts to die just slacken off the fuel filler cap, if it picks up and runs normaly then it is a tank braeather issue, the breather is on the top right hand corner of the fuel tank, replace it.
Turn the chain brake off, then remove the bar and chain. Clean the side of the engine where the bar fits to, start the engine and observe whether the small oil port on the engine oozes out oil. If nothing and the oil tank is filled, put the saw back together and take it back to the seller for warranty repair of the oil pumping system or a fresh saw in exchange. Hope this helps!
Check the air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Try turning the idle speed screw (not the L jet screw) CW one full turn. Does it now idle? If the chain keeps turning at idle, back off the speed screw until the chain stops after revving the engine. When the engine won't start, remove the spark plug and check for blue, snappy spark. If the plug insulator is black, try a new correct type plug. If sparks ok, then squirt some fuel mix into the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start. If you get a pop or two, then fuel delivery is a likely problem. If it again runs, the plug may have been the problem. Otherwise, check the fuel filter, fuel line, and carburetor for any loose fasteners. Finally, run the engine at full throttle--it should 4-stroke with no load, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Adjust the H jet needle to achieve this. hope this helps!
Check the air cleaner and muffler for plugging. One screw adjusts the idle stop (idle speed) position and the H and L jet screws set fuel mixture for high speed and idle speed mixture respectively. Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly) then back each out CCW 1-1/2 turns. This is a basic setting and should allow the engine to start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H CW until the engine starts to speed up, but 4-strokes. Correct adjustment is when the engine 4--strokes running free, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine will continue to run. Hope this helps!
Sounds like the saw is running lean. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of the fuel lines and that the fasteners on the carburetor are tight. If all ok, turn the 'L' and 'H' jet needles on the carburetor CW to stops (lightly), then back out each 1-1/2 turns CCW. This is a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, pull the throttle full on, and adjust H CW until the engine starts to speed up, but continues to 4-stroke. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. This produces the most power and least heat. Allow to idle and adjust L CW until the engine runs fairly well, yet will allow it to 'follow the throttle'. Set the idle speed screw til the chain stops moving, but keeps the engine running. Hope this helps!
Engine is probably starving for fuel. Check the filter inside the fuel tank on the end of the fuel pickup. Also check the pulse diaphragme for perforation. check the fuel for water too. Lastly, if all these are ok, try altering the main mixture screw to make the engine run a little more rich.
Are you pumping the primer till it's full of fuel? The fuel pump diaphram is only strong enough to keep things flowing after you have pumped it up. you will need to prime it up again if you run it out of fuel or if it sits any length of time
I work for warcks county council, the husky 357xp is our main saw. We've experienced the same problem with many of our new 357's. after many hours of trying to solve the problem (including swapping carbs from old broken saws etc) i stumbled upon, by fluke i'm afraid, a problem with the ngk bpmr7a spark plugs. They seem to work fine for a short period of time (even new out of the box) then leak compression from the cylinder. We are running a esser rated bosh spark plug which seems to have eliminated the problem, (can't remember the number, sorry). We have now ordered champion plugs to replace the stock. Probably worth a try. Hope this is of some help.