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Clutch replacement on whirlpool washer lse8223e

How do i replace clutch .... some instructions

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  • strawberripa Mar 05, 2009

    model #LSR8233EZ1

  • Scott Wiuff
    Scott Wiuff May 11, 2010

    Is this a direct drive top loader with the pump in the front? Look at the model number under the lid. I don't recognize the model. If it's what I think it is, it's real easy.

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Below is a link that will show a little in detail. 1st take off the control panel. Use a putty knife between console and base of washer. Go to the outside corner and push in and tilt back cont panel. The remove 2 gold clips underneath that. the whole outer cabinet will then come off. The take off the outer top ring on the basket it's the one the soap drips into. It's just clipped on. Then remove the agitator. Usually to top cap pulls off and there is a bold holding the bottom agitator on the shaft. Then there is a silver nut on top that that you'll have to get off. We have a special wrench but take a screw driver and spin it off. The the whole inside basket can be pulled up and taken out. Then look at the motor and pump in the front. They are just clipped on so remove them and un-hook the motor wires and set that aside. The there are 3 screws holding the transmission to the base. I would tilt it back so you can see them and pull out the whole transmission. It'll just drop right out then you'll see the cutch. Sounds like a lot but if you refer to the pictures on the link it will help a lot. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Looks like the clutch is abot $40.00


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd;jsessionid=Wa0fOurdi7fM+OMoEj4qWA**.shcapp3206?modelNumber=LSR8233EZ1&pop=flush

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

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Washer in the las cycle do not extract the water completely in other words do not spin (hi) to extract the water


You will need to replace the "clutch band" on the washer. The clutch has become worn and will not engage completely to bring the washer up to the proper spin condition. Here is a link to the clutch kit and it comes with the complete instructions for the repair.

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The agitator on my whirlpool saws800jq2 top load washer is not spinning. where is my problem? motor? clutch?


This is usually the agitator dogs have worn out or broke. These are very inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is a video this will walk you thru checking and replacing the agitator dogs . You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

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My macine draines the water but dont want to turn over to spin, what can the problem be?


soundsw like you have a bad clutch on your unit costs about 25 dollars problem is you would have to know how to remove and then reinstallthe entire transmission to replace the clutch heres some instructions on how to get the job done fixitnow.com/.../how-to-replace-the-clutch-in-a-whirlpool-direct-drive-top-loading-washer


hope this helps any problems write me back

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Kenmore washer 110 makes grinding noice only at first of spin cycle. is it the clutch?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In order of difficulty, there are three possibilities.

1. It's possible that the Motor Coupler is worn / broken.

This is a three part plastic and rubber device that transmits power from the motor to the transmission. If it's worn and slipping you may hear the plastic pieces grinding against each other.

It's an easy repair.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=2e8e02b3755ab86d8e046bc88e9db27b

If the Coupler is worn, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


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most likely just clutch ck for oil or water on it if oil most likely top seal gearcase is leaking ..remove agitator cap remove bolt in middle of agitator ..remove console screws remove clips under console holding cabinet on remove cabinet ..lean washer back remove pump then motor remove the 3 bolts holding gearcase in remove gearcase clutch is silver disk on top of gearcase with band inside ..band is actual clutch may try cleaning it but not hopeful about it being a permanet fix

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Tip the washer backward, inspect the bottom of the gearcase for oil. If oil is present, the oil has migrated to the clutch causing it to slip during spin. The gearcase and clutch will have to be replaced if oil is present. Check the owners manual for limited warranty on the gearcase. If oil is not present, the clutch is just worn and should be replaced.

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