My plumber, forgot to screw the brass 90' fitting to the stud block, now the shower heads moves in and out of the wall. We used Durabond 45 around the shower arm pipe, it lasted for several weeks before becoming loose again.
The best way is to cut a hole in the wall and fix it right. That will entail replacing the surface material, probably sheetrock. You could try some silicone sealant around the shower arm behind the eschusion. It will still move, but not much.
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If you are looking to replace only the shower head, you'll need two plumber's wrenches, a cloth, and Teflon tape.
First and foremost, read the install instructions that come with the new shower head...
After you clearly understand what the instruction's say, shut of the water supply lines for the hot & cold water.
Take one of the wrenches and apply it to the neck of the water supply tube coming out of the shower wall (a.k.a. goose neck or supply nipple, or arm, depending upon the design). It'll have male threads (the threads are on the outside of the fitting). I would place a cloth of some sort around it before placing the wrench on it so you don't mar the finish of the water supply tube.
Place the second wrench on the shower head assembly (which has the internal, female threads). and unscrew it by turning the shower head assembly counter-clock-wise (to the left) while holding the water supply nipple with the other wrench.
You need to do this, so you don't snap or deform the water supply nipple coming out of the shower wall- and/or possibly causing leaky damage to the fittings behind the shower wall.
To replace the shower head, you reverse the removal process- the only difference is, you wrap Teflon tape around the male threads of the water supply nipple before spinning on the new shower head.
Somethings to be careful of, and I can't stress this enough, DO NOT cross thread the new shower head onto the water supply nipple. You should be able to screw it on the new shower head by hand- where it is hand tightened- then using the double-wrench method that you used to take off the shower head, turn the new shower head an additional half to three quarter turns with the wrench, clock-wise; and I mean gently.
Here's a nice short video on the subject, illustrating my instructions: http://youtu.be/fiv4Zq9v4co
The shower arm should be screwed into an elbow inside the wall. Unscrew the shower arm by putting your pipe wrench on the arm and unscrewing in a counter clockwise direction ( lefty loosey, righty tighty ) . Measure the length of the arm going inside the wall and make sure your replacement has enough length to reach. Teflon tape the inside end ( the end going in the wall ) and wrap a rag around the new arm, then screw into the elbow going clock wise , stopping when it starts getting tight and with the bend facing downward. Install shower head.
Try removing the handle, then the face plate. With a flashlight handy, check inside the wall around the valve to see if you see any leaks. Then, try the valve by pulling the stem (may need a plier to grab this). Keep checking inside the wall. Next, try the shower, and again watch in the hole you have. You may find that the connection(s) to the valve is/are leaking, particularly at the top of the valve where the shower pipe heads up the wall. Or, it may be that the shower head's arm is leaking somewhere above. If you only see water dripping down from above, try the flashlight with a small make-up mirror to see if you can see where it's coming from. Sometimes the pressure in the shower head builds up from the flow restrictor, or the head's spray holes may need cleaning out (try soaking the head in a solution of CLR [stands for Calcium, Lime, Rust] available at most home improvement/ hardware stores). Sometimes the shower arm (the bent 1/2" diameter pipe that the shower head mounts to) isn't fastened in tightly enough. A good trick to help here is to wrap the threads with teflon tape, then apply teflon paste also. Wrap the tape clockwise around the threads so that it doesn't unwrap when you screw the pipe back into the fitting in the wall. Also, make sure the threads in the fitting in the wall are cleaned out, and don't let any debris contaminate the new teflon paste as you slip it back through the hole in the wall. If you find that the pipe out of the top of the valve is leaking, I recommend you call the plumber. He/she can likely fix it without taking the wall apart.
Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.
Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.
If you are taking about then neck of the shower head this is what you must do. its no need to turn the water off to the house or to the bathroom first you will need a pair of channel locks and some Teflon tape. first remove the shower head if you dont want to scar the nut on the shower head place cloth between the pliers and the fitting, once removed (very important) turn the channel locks upside down stick one side of the blue handle up in the neck of the shower and rotate to your left to loosen if you are having a leak leak there it should already be semi loose, once removed wrap the threads with the Teflon tape and re-insert making sure it is tight, then wrap the the outer end of the neck with Teflon tape and place the head back on.The reason it leaked is because the plumber who installed it did not tighten it up completly because he wanted it to look straight coming out of the wall and the additional water pressure causes it to leak wheras the hot water causes it to expand and seal
Hello, Many shower heads have similar problems. (Very frustrating as you now know) The problem is the threads at the end of the (cheap plastic) shower neck are not flat. They are tapered (has an edge) - so it does not seat flush with the base of the shower head. Actually cuts around the rubber washer causing a leak.
What to do about it?
File the end of the neck some to create a flat surface. However, go slow. Be sure you can still screw on the shower head. Add a flat rubber washer in the shower head and plumbers tape on neck threads too.
Or Purchase a new shower neck that has a better design. The neck should unscrew from the front. Check and make sure you have an access behind the shower just in case you need to access the plumbing.
I replace the shower neck myself if there is an access.
As a helpful hint , on these models, When installed some plumbers or home owners use plumbers putty to seal the threads and in some cases tape. Most of the time the putty or tape gets pushed through the system if too much was used. Check by removing the shower head and testing the pressure and blowing anything else through, then checking the head itself for foreign objects. Kohler has a cleaning and care page on thier web site if it needs cleaned.
Most handheld showers use a hose to connect from the existing shower arm down to the hand held option. Some units come with attachment points on the shower arm, but I believe that you are looking for a unit that has a hook that you can mount where ever is comfortable for you.
Your question is how to tighten up in the wall without putting a stud wall in for kyra body jets.
Kyra sells about fifteen models and they are all designed to be installed in a wall of some type.
The wall lends some very nessessary support to the valve body so that the whole thing dosen't move when the handle is adjusted. Wood stud, metal stud and concrete are typical structures. If you are trying to install on a free standing shower I recomend at least some kind of creative frame to support the valve.
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