Question about Shower Hardware
I have just replaced the flow valve and switch unit on a
Mira 9kw Sports shower and included an isolating stopcock in the pipework for maintenance purposes.
Despite the water pressure being very good/ high at hte property, on turning the shower on, the low flow light now comes on immediately and there is no hot water on any settings:
Water pressure appears good. but cold water only.
On warmer settings the flow rate reduces significantly but no hot water.
I Cleaned the filter. No difference.
I have taken of the shower hose. No difference.
I have changed the flow valve (2nd time now). No difference.
The temperature control switch is getting power.
Any suggestionsas to what to do next. Surely replacing the temp control switch will not solve the low flow light issue?
Is it a faulty switching unit?
Any help is much appreciated.
There is a little "o" ring in the shower inlet that is designed to collapse as the pressure increases, limiting flow. You can safely remove this and then have un restricted flow.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
If your water heater is old or has been recently replaced, it will slough off debris that will get caught in the hot water supply side of the faucet. You have to disassimble the faucet and use a dental pic to remove the debris from it. This is a real common occurance. You can also try to flush out that side by removing the parts and then slowly turning on the water without the parts inside. Be careful not to flood your bathroom when you do this. But usually you have to dig it out. I have spent as high as 3 hours digging the liner from the dip tube of a water heater out of a faucet.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Try exchanging the Delta head with one of the other shower heads you are happy with if you haven't already done so. No change in the flow means it's not in the head, and change means it is.
If it is in the head, since you are on a well and not a municiple water supply, you might consider removing the factory install flow controll device located just below the threaded area that mounts to the shower arm. These inserts can be a real bugger on some heads and each one is a little different than the last. The trusty nail often works well.
Your body sprays, I believe, are factory fixed at something like 2.2 gpm and non adjustable.
Also consider for a moment a garden hose with trigger spray head on it. When you squeeze the trigger the water will shoot out a certain maximum distance. If you were to take an ice pick and poke a hole in the hose, that maximum distance will be slightly reduced. The more holes in the hose the less the maximim distance. Correspondingly, the more holes you poke the less distance each hole will squirt because you have the same pressure and volume of water but more exit points.
A monitor has a flow rate of about 6 gpm at 85 psi which is pretty average for shower valves. If your other showers have only one exit point(i.e. one head) and the R1824 has 3 with the same pressure and volume, the garden hose illustration can also explain the volume change as well.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
SOURCE: Low hot water pressure on
I think you are on the right track. The first thing I would do is change the cartridge. While you have the valve apart examine the inlet ports as good as you can to see if there is any mineral buildup. You can use a short length of a small gauge mallable wire to run into water ports to se if you can break anything loose. Another thing you can do is to turn supply stop on slightly while you have the valve disassembled to wash any particles out. Hope this helps you and thanks.
Posted on May 14, 2011
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