Question about Refrigerators
Common frost free fridge parts...
Compressor - this is the heart if the refrigerator, it pumps the gas around the refrigerator system tubing.
The condenser - this is the warm tubing, it gets warm from the heat removed from the fridge food and allows the warm gas to cool to be re-pumped back into the refrigerator.
The condenser fan motor - A fan device used to force air through a condenser to aid in the transfer of heat.
The condenser fan motor - not all fridge's have this, it is a fan that blows room temp air across the condenser ( hot ) tubing to help remove the heat from the condenser tubing and also helps the compressor run cooler. This fan motor also helps the defrost water evaporate and disappear.
The evaporator - This is the cold tubing, the gas is pumped into it as a liquid and the gas boils to remove the heat from inside the fridge. The heat/exchanger - this is the highway tubing that allows the gas to be pumped into the freezer and carries the cold gas back to the compressor. The large tubing section of the heat/exchanger is the suction line the smaller tubing soldered to the suction line is the capillary tube, this small tube controls the amount of gas entering the evaporator.
Evaporator - A part of the refrigeration system in which the refrigerant gas evaporates, absorbing heat from the surrounding area.
Cold control - this controls the on and off of the fridge, it senses temperature changes to do it's job. A switch that controls an electric current in response to changing temperature. More properly called a Temp Thermostat.
Defrost timer - this is a timer motor controlled device, it will shut the fridge off and put the fridge into the defrost mode at a pre-determined time depending on make and manufactures. The timer also makes the fridge come back out of defrost and puts normal running back on. Defrost thermostat - this allows the defrost heater to heat up to a certain temp and then shuts the defrost heater back off.
The defrost thermostat can be found in the evaporator coils. This is a bimetal switch used to open the electric circuit to the defrost heater once a set temperature is reached. The defrost cycle will continue until the timer advances into the cooling cycle, however the heater will no longer be energized. This thermostat will reset to a closed position once a set colder temperature is again reached. May also be called a defrost limit switch.
The defrost heater - this is a electric heater imbedded in the evaporator coils, the heater melts the frost and changes the frost to water.
Defrost drain - the drain is suppose to carry the water that has been melted by the defrost heater away from the inside of the fridge to thecondensing tray ( the condensing tray is usually found under the bottom of the fridge ), a pan-shaped panel used to collect condensate from the evaporator during a defrost cycle. It is usually located above a condenser coil or atop the compressor. May also be called condensate water pan.
Drain trough - A trough-shaped panel used to funnel defrost condensate, from the evaporator coil, to the drain tube leading eventually to the drain pan
Evaporator fan - This is the fan inside the freezer section, it will circulate the cold air around in the freezer and blow the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, it also sucks the warm air from the fresh food section back into the freezer to be re-cooled. I have some samples of this air flow...back wall evaporator here...floor evaporator here...
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
The most common is that clicking noise on a fridge is coming from the start system on the compressor , and in that case this must be replaced. When it is the compressor start system you also get not enough cooling or cooling irregular.
On modern units clicking can also be caused by a jammed water dispenser or ice maker solenoid.
Some unit may also have an electronic board , with a protection circuit that can start clicking , but when that happens the appliance does not start at all.
Try first to understand if the noise comes from the ice maker of the dispenser, in that case test solenoid and inlet valve and replace the faulty part, if solenoid or valve are good but keep clicking replace control assembly.
If the noise is not from the parts above , then it is the compressor start system, in that case repace the start system.
You can find parts and diagrams for your appliance by entering the model number here.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
That if the defroster going on and off you can replace it but if it's still working I wouldnt worry to much thank you for useing fixya please rate me
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
It seems an issue with the compressor relay switch so get it checked with a professional
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
If there is no cooling on the fridge but the freezer is cooling then the compressor and gas pressure seems good. So to check the set for blocks in the ducts we must shut off the fridge.Keep it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
The fan making noise can be due to frost build up .If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
Do not set thermostat up to max but keep it to normal .So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Oct 09, 2010 | Refrigerators
Apr 30, 2009 | Refrigerators
Apr 01, 2009 | Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer...
Apr 01, 2009 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...
Apr 01, 2009 | Electrolux Refrigerators
Apr 01, 2009 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Apr 01, 2009 | Samsung Refrigerators
Mar 14, 2009 | Bosch Refrigerators
Feb 20, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators
Jul 14, 2007 | Engel Freezer 22 Qt. Fridge/Freezer
272 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!