When I put the hex nut on the dremel to use the saw attachment. I only tightened it finger tight. The saw itself tightened it down much more while in use. Now I cannot get the thing off and the little push button just pops back out when I forcefully turn the nut to loosen. Any other suggestions on how to get it off?
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Re: help. Cannot remove the nut on the dremel
HELLO ,you must keep your thumb on the push button while trying to loosen the nut it sounds like your pushing the pushbutton in and then letting it go as you try to loosen the nut , i also have a dremel and i made the same mistake when i first got my tool , Hope this truly helps you get it off , I thank you for letting me try to help you Sincerely Glenn
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A Ryobi might not have that nut. They are likley a ring gear drive which is different. I'd open it up and look at the gears. Make sure no teeth are missing and that none are worn down. If they're worn they would probably look rounded. If the gears are bad the saw is more than likely not worth repair. Ryobi saws are not very expensive compared to the cost of repair parts.
Remove cover on the chain side of the saw. Loosen the two hex nuts that hold the bar onto the saw. You will need to loosen the tightener screw also. Place chain back onto the bar making sure the chain is positioned properly in the sprocket at the rear of the bar and just reverse the directions. Tighten the tightener screw until the chain is tightened leaving a little slack, then tighten the two hex nut. Replace the side cover. When you pull the chain down away from the bar, it should have just a bit of slack not tight. This allows the chain to turn without a lot of friction. I hope this helps.
There will be an adjuster screw eithet on the front of the saw, or on the side of the chain cover, slacken the nut/nuts so they are just finger tight and then turn the sdjuster screw clockwise to increase the tention, then re tighten the nut/nuts.
The saw should have come with a wheel wrench and a hex key. The hex key will act as your stopping mechanism if you hold it.
With the saw unplugged, loosen the wheel guard lock and rotate the wheel guard to expose the arbor nut. Put the wrench on the arbor nut and a hex key in the spindle. Keep the wheel from turning with the hex key and loosen the arbor nut with the wrench (turn counter-clockwise). Then remove the hex key, wheel wrench, arbor nut, and outer washer to access the blade. Remove the old blade then wipe a drop of oil on the inner washer. Place the new blade on the spindle. Replace the outer washer and then the arbor nut. Again use the wheel wrench and the hex key to tighten the arbor nut while keeping the wheel from turning. Then replace the wheel guard and tighten the wheel guard lock.
On the chain saw there should be a panel held on by two screws or nuts where the bar and chain is attached.
Remove the two screws or nuts and the panel and you will expose the chain and sprocket.
Loop the chain around the sprocket and bar.
Put the bar with the chain around the sprocket back on the saw, reinstall the cover with the two screws/nuts, but do not tighten too tight.(You will want to be able to move the bar with the chain.)
Then pull the bar away from the saw to tighten the chain, once the chain it tight, then you will retighten the screws or nuts to lock the bar and chain in place.
Be sure you lube the chain and bar with "Bar Oil" before starting to put the saw into service.
Good Luck...I hope this helped
Please rate me, Thanks
Put it over the sprocket first, then work your way right putting it into the bar grove as you go, the nose last. Grasp and pull the bar right the chain should rise into grove, you may need to help. Loosen the chain tensioner some put the clutch cover on and tighten the bar nuts finger tight. Chain adjustment
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the nuts that are clamping the guide bar in place (or whatever your saw uses to hold the side plate and bar on with). We don't need these really loose - just finger tight will do.
Ease the tension until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
Now, while holding the nose up, adjust the tension so that the chain just touches the underside of the bar.
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the side plate nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
The adjusting screw is usually found on the right side of the saw close to the bar, near the bottom. You will need to loosen the two nuts on the side that hold the bar tight. Loosen them until the bar lifts up and down (about 1/2") with your finger.
There should be a combination spark plug wrench and screwdriver that came with your saw. If not, use a slot screwdriverto tighten the chain while you hold the bar up with two fingers.
When adjusted properly, there should be no hanging slack in the chain when it is warm. It should rest just against the bar so that you can grasp it with gloves on and pull it toward you.
When it is tightened thusly, tighten the two side nuts while holding the bar up with two fingers. If you don't tighten the two nuts enough, it will loosen and the chain will have slack again shortly.
Remember that the hotter the chain gets, the looser it will be. Make sure your chains is getting plenty of bar oil. Never use regular motor oil.
without a model number I cant look at a breakdown but if it is like the table saws that I work on I would assume that you removed the center plate to get to the hex nut and spindle, if so what I have to sometimes is put my wrench on the spindle and brace it against the saw frame and using a soft mallet tap on the hex wrench to loosen the nut. After this initial blade change the hex nut has to be tight but not to the point of breaking wrenches. If this doesn't work get me the model number and I will dig deeper to try and help