I just pick up a Bosch KIM29473GB refrigerator for virtual nothing as my fridge just died! The light is on but Hear no buzz from the back and the freon canister at the back isn't hot (I guess dead) is there a manuel I could pick up to help me locate the problem/part that might need replacing...as I'm unemployed at the moment I need to resolve it as cheap as possible...I hope you understand! cheers for any leads you can give me!
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Lights on no refrigeration
This may be caused by the thermostat being faulty. To be sure you need to find someone with a volt meter who can check that power is in fact reaching the compressor (freon canister). If it is getting power, then it is possible that the compressor has failed and would need replacing.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
can you hear a humming sound coming from the back of the refrigerator, if so that means your compressor is running, if you are hearing a buzz or clicking sound your compressor is trying to start, you may need a compressor. Some whirlpools have a 5 year sealed system warranty that would cover the repair.
Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.
The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)
You might try removing and ohming out the door switches before you remove the fan motor. for fan motor operation the switch should read open on the NO to C and closed on NC to C with the switch out of the fridge. push and hold in the switch and the opposite readings should be observed IE closed on NO - C and open on NC - C. look closely at the switch for these letters.
If you have an electronic control system with an led or lcd display a magnetic switch may be employed and this would do both operations with a magnet close to the switch acuator.
Hi, As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips. If your refrigerator is running but warm, then… Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
it sound more like the compressor is faulty siezed up if so it will try to work then trip on the compressor overheat it will rest for about three to five minutes then try again if this is happening it almost certainly eliminates the stat if the stat was faulty the compressor would not try to start compressor expensive to replace and time consuming would take about two hours Good luck
either the noise is coming form he ice maker fill valve( but if its of and still aking noise i doubt it. it also possible that the noise is coming from the compressor itself, overheating nad trying to restart in which case would give a slight "buzz" noise for 5secs or so then "click" off, and wait maybe 3 min to restart again. look for melted ice andperhaps your ice dream ont as hard as it should be???