How tight should the blade bolt be on a cut off saw
Hi, Can anyone tell me how tight the blade should be on a Stihl 2 stroke cut off saw?
I know that normal abrasive wheels on bench grinders should only be gently nipped up as they self torque when the machine is run, does this apply to circular diamond or composite blades on these concrete cutting machines or should they be fully tightened up with a spanner?
And if they need to be tight that begs the question, how tight?
Re: How tight should the blade bolt be on a cut off saw
You've answered this yourself. The blade only needs to be nipped up enough to grip. If it slips, it will tighten. Thats why, some machines have a left hand thread, as they always rotate so as to tighten in the event of slippage.
If the blade slips under normal service, suggest you clean both blade and the flanges, and just do it up a little tighter next time.
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Richard are you using correct Bosch blades ( some blades are not correct thickness), is spindle bolt tight, spindle washer is not worn or cracked,oily, dirty, etc.
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If it actually binds and stops the motor...... it sounds like the motor is bad, the bearings are bad, or the blade is on backwards. If the motor keeps spinning, but the blade stops then the gears are bad or the blade bolt is not tight.
There should be a special washer between the bolt (that holds the blade on) and the blade. If the arbor has a flat side on it, then the washer should have a matching hole so that the washer cannot turn independently of the arbor. Or, some saws use a spring washer which is cupped and becomes flattened against the blade as the bolt is tightened. If you have the first type of washer, perhaps the bolt is just not tight enough. If you have the second type of washer, perhaps the washer is backwards. If you have neither type of washer, you need one.
Check the blade centre bolt for corrct tightness. If you have fitted a new blade, check to see if it is the type with a removable centre spacer (multi fit type) if it is, it sounds like the centre bolt has bee overtightened at some stage and deformed the spacer which now takes all the drive from the motor instead of the blade itself. Try giving the spacer a light file to remove any burrs. If all else fails, obtain a new blade which doesn't have the center spacer to avoid this problem
Does the motor continue to run? If so, the blade retaining bolt may not be tight enough. Most saws have a 'stop' pin which locks the drive during the blade tightening procedure. Make sure the blade is very sharp to reduce cutting effort. Hope this helps!
Their web site seems to be down at the moment but most circular saw you just need to lock the blade somehow. Sometimes putting the blade up against a piece of wood so it can't turn will get the job done. Unplug the saw so it can't run. Some saws come with a custom wrench to turn a custom bolt, others a regular combination wrench would work. There should be a bolt that goes into the center of the blade. To keep the bolt from coming out while cutting, they are reverse threaded so you loosen it by turning the bolt the reverse direction you on a normal bolt. take the bolt out and be careful you don't loose the washers on each side of the blade. Put in new blade and reverse the process of taking it apart.
Well M8:) try to to unloose it backwards, It dosent loose as usal, you need to posh the otherway. Nornaly you loose things from right to left, this one (and other items that cut) you loos from left to right.