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Re: Iceicles form on underside of ice maker
It sounds like maybe the Icemaker itself is leaking. under the white strippers on the side of the icemaker there is normally a silicon seal that prevents water from spilling out during fill, over time this seal erodes and needs to be reapplied or if the icemaker mold has coroded real bad you may need to replace the icemaker. food grade silicone grease is available thru whirlpool and the part number is 542638 you will have to take the stationary stripper off of the side of the icemaker and clean the surface between the mold and stripper then apply the grease in a lite film. if you have any further questions please ask thanks Peyton
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I would replace the water filter first off. If you have completed that already then I would check the water fill outlet for calcium build up. If that is clear, check to make sure the solenoid is energizing for the fill. If you have water to the basin and it is still not working I would have to check the timer to see if it is initiating a cycle for the ice.
The probelm is your not getting enough water to fill the ice maker up. This could be caused by a variety of things. I'll go over the most common ones. 1) Check the water filter. If the filter is out of date or has a severe enough calcium build-up it will restrict water flow 2) Is there a blockage in the fill tube of the icemaker? 3) is there calcium build uip at the valve? Turn the water off and remove the water line from the valve and inspect. 4)The valve may be going bad not allowing the solenoid to open completly causing less water. With all that said there is a place on the icemaker itself that the water level can be adjusted, but be cautious. Too nuch if a turn and you may end uo flooding your kitchen.
I have to manually make the ice dump. 2) I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking and the inside of the freezer also has a slight build up of frost on the walls.
From my 40 years of experience that statement is telling me that the freezers' evaporator coils are blocked with ice. (i.e frost on the walls) When the coils become blocked or built up with ice everything APPEARS to be working fine but the actual freezer temp is above 17 deg F. An ice maker will not initiate an ice-harvest cycle until the temps are between 14 - 16 Deg F. I.e it is not cold enough to automatically make ice because the ice maker thermostat is not closing at 14 - 16 deg F to start the ice harvest.
So I will pose these questions for you and answer them:
Q? What causes the ice on the walls
A: The unit is not defrosting properly.
Q? What causes a refrigerator to not defrost properly?
A: There are several; reasons that a refrigerator will not automatically defrost
1. The defrost control has failed (Most common failure)
2. The defrost heating element has failed
3. The defrost thermostat has failed
4. A wiring problem in the defrost circuit
Now.... you also made this statement: I now have a slight build up of ice under the ice maker where it appears the water from the ice tray is leaking
You may have a leaking ice tray but it is quite rare. What usually causes an ice build up directly under and ice maker is the inlet water valve leaking / bypassing water when it is supposed to be shut off. An inlet water valve will bypass water when the internal diaphragm fails or debris is blocking the needle seat of the diaphragm. Either way the only remedy is to replace the inlet water valve because the valves are NOT repairable.
Reach inside your freezer and squeeze the rubber tube that fills the ice maker with water. If there is a problem with the inlet water valve the rubber tube starts freezing up with ice. Eventually when the rubber tube is totally frozen the plastic tube on the back of the refrigerator that connects to the rubber tube either leaks or separates from the rubber tube and ports water onto the floor. If you really want to prove that there is a problem with the inlet water valve turn the ice maker OFF. Remove the plastic tube from the rubber ice maker fill tube (Just pulls out) and place it in a bucket overnight. IF you note water in the bucket the next day then the inlet water valve has for sure failed. Sometimes they LEAK intermittently when the failure first begins so the bucket test may not reveal a leaking inlet water valve. The key here is you said you have water UNDER the ice maker and you suspect a tray leak.
Here is what I recommend you do after the overnight plastic tube in a bucket leakage / bypassing test: 1. Reinstall the plastic tube on to the rubber fill tube. 2. Turn the ice maker ON 3. UNPLUG the refrigerator and so a manual defrost by removing the freezer contents then directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess) 4. Return the unit to normal service 5. Check for ice production 6 - 8 hours after you performed the manual defrost. If you have automatic ice production you most likely have and automatic defrosting problem... BUT.... there can be a problem with the freezer door / light switch. The door light switch is a 3 contact switch. One contact is a common power wire and the other 2 contacts turn on the light and provide power to the ice maker (and some times the evaporator fan also depending on unit design)
Test the door light switch amd make sure the light will go off when the door is closed. (depress the plunger) If the light stays on the door switch is bad.
Hopefully you have enough information to understand what is happening with your refrigerator and what the causes of the symptoms you have are.
I think in the end you will have to repair the automatic defrost problem and replace the inlet water valve. Do not forget about testing the door light switch.
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The water inlet valve may be staying open. It's on the back where the water supply is connected. You
can swap the wires on the dual water inlet valve and disconnect the water line
at the valve which goes to the ice maker. When you try the water dispenser the
water will come out there. When you stop the water dispenser, if the water at
the valve doesn't stop, the valve isn't closing so you'll need to replace it.
Carefully pour water from small glass into ice maker, until the cavity is near filled. Wait a few hours. If it dumps ice, you can usually rule out the ice maker.
If ice maker dumps, then it will be either a bad water valve, Ice building up in fill pipe going into the icemaker, or blocked water line that runs from your water source to the machine.
Caution. If the fill tube going into the ice maker is filled with ice do NOT
use heat such as a hair dryer to melt it. It will melt things you do not want to melt. If it is this problem, you must also replace the water valve because it is leaking slowly causing your problem.
Lastly, in rare cases, the microswitch in the ice maker fails and does not allow water to enter the icemaker.
Your water feed to the unit is controled by a needle valve and could be filling up with calcium, to fix this you can take the unit apart and soak valve in a solution that will break down the calcium. Often it is easer to replace the unit or the valve, most things you use to decalcify the valve can also damage it at the same time.