Husqvarna 357 XP Hard starting. Runs OK when cutting. If allowed to go to idle, the RPM's go up then stalls. Runs fine on fast idle. Seems to be starving for fuel, but the lines are clear and filter is good. Only on its second season of use. Has been trouble free up to this point.
I work for warcks county council, the husky 357xp is our main saw. We've experienced the same problem with many of our new 357's. after many hours of trying to solve the problem (including swapping carbs from old broken saws etc) i stumbled upon, by fluke i'm afraid, a problem with the ngk bpmr7a spark plugs. They seem to work fine for a short period of time (even new out of the box) then leak compression from the cylinder. We are running a esser rated bosh spark plug which seems to have eliminated the problem, (can't remember the number, sorry). We have now ordered champion plugs to replace the stock. Probably worth a try. Hope this is of some help.
I have had the same problem with two 357xp that i am running. One is about 4 years old and started playing up after about two years, it was sent into a workshop who spent a lot of time looking at before changing the carburetter. It seems ok now but still has to be set to a fast idle. My other 357xp is less than a year old and has now started playing up. I have been told that there has been a number of reported cases with the manufacturer not saying anything. By coincidence i have also been told that the UK Forestry Commission now uses the new 346xp instead of the 357xp.
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start by checking all ur fuel lines for holes then proceed to clean or rebuild ur carb the ethonal in fuel is cloging small engine carb jets and making needles stick so then adjust ur carb back to factory settings try with new air filter as well and run 89octane or higher in your two stroke motors u will c a great differance in performance
In simple terms here we go, turn both L screw and H screw fully in until they stop ( clock wise ) now turn the L scew out one and a half turns out, and the H screw one and a quarter turns out, start the saw ans warm up the engine, allow the saw to idle, if need be turn the idle screw in to gain a slightly fast idle, start to turn the L screw in, the revs will start to increse as the mixture leans off, thet will reach a point where the engine then starts to die because it is too len, at this point unscrew the screw quarter turn, check the machine revs up clean, if there is a hesitation unscrew the jet a smaal bit at a time until it revs clean, now adjust the idle screw so the engine idles without the cutting chain rotating around the bar, the H screw should be about right however if it sounds too rich at full throttle srew the jet in a small amount until it sounds right, the maximum rpm should not exceed 13500, this should realy be check with a rev counter, if the engine revs too high there is a fear that it will over heat and seize.
Assuming that the bad fuel has been cleaned away, check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly) then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. This is a basic setting which should allow the engine to start and warm up. After warm, pull the throttle full on and turn the H jet needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes at speed unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L jet needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Hope this helps!
Turn both H and L jet needles CW to stops (lightly), then back out 1-1/2 turns each CCW. This is a basic setting and will be rich. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and turn the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up, but continues to 4-stroke. Final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes at speed with no load, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and allow to idle. Turn the L jet needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Idle speed screw should be adjusted to keep the engine idling, but the chain should not try to turn. Hope this helps!
The carb is an "all position" type and shouldn't be the problem.
Check and clean/replace the fuel filter in the tank. Dirty or old gas, sawdust and/or water etc. settle on the bottom of the tank; and when the saw is turned over will plug the filter, causing the symptoms you discribe.
It is possible, if you used old gas(3 to 6 months) that small varnish particles have gotten through the fuel filter and have pluged the fine screen in the carb(located under the diaphram).
The H jet needle controls full speed operation and L controls idle operation. Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. This should allow the engine to start and run. Make sure the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler are not plugged. Check the fuel lines for decay or damage. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight including the hardware that holds the carburetor to the cylinder. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up--proper setting is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Allow the engine to idle and adjust L CW so that the engine runs fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for condition. Check the carburetor fasteners for tightness. If the saw has a lot of hours, remove the lower section of the carburetor and check the condition of the diaphragm--it should not be hard/cracked. If everything seems to check out ok, Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then CCW each 1-1/2 turns. The engine should start and run--allow the engine to warm up. Pull the throttle full on and adjust H needle CW til the engine speeds up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Let idle and adjust L CW so that the engine runs fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust the idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
Check the air cleaner and muffler for plugging first. Turn both jet needles CW to stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. Turn the idle speed screw CW about 1/2 turn. This is a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on and adjust the H needle CW til the engine speeds up somewhat, but is still 4-stroking. Correct setting is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and allow to idle. Turn the L needle CW until the engine runs fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops moving, but still allows the engine to keep running. Hope this helps!
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. At idle turn the screw in or clockwise until the rps starts to decrease. Then start turning it out till you hit max idle rpms. Turn screw back in a quarter to half turn and it should be idling smoothly. Be careful here and get someone to hold saw if necessary but hold in throttle to full speed and do the same with high adjustment screw. turn it in till rpm starts to drop then back it out until you get to max rpm and it won't go any higher then turn it back in a half a turn. If you have to change the high rpm jet a lot you might have to go back and readjust the low rpm jet again and set the idle speed. Never idle it high enough that the chain turns while at idle.
We used to have to do this a lot in timber business. You go up on the mountain to cut logs and the altitude has high enough that you had to adjust carburetor and then do it again when you got back to the sawmill.