The latch holding the battery itself in place (not the outer lid of the battery compartment) of my coolpix is broken; has anyone replaced that part yet and has a description for me how to do it?
SOURCE: Nikon Coolpix 2100/3100/3200 battery compartment door latch broken (again)
I just purchased a new battery door for $15 with shipping from nikon. They sent a simple assembly diagram and I was able to replace the door in 30 minutes. I used a dremel to cut the old door off, but you dont have to do that. I got a little impatient.
Just buy the plastic piece and u can reuse the metal parts for your old battery door.
SOURCE: Broken Battery Compartment Cover
I haved the battery cover ,call me 786-4361121 new original nikon
SOURCE: Broken battery latch cover
no, is not practical to repair. you can do bigger mass what is now. only what you can do is secure cover with self-adhesive tape. if you not satisfied with this, go to service and pay repair.
SOURCE: Cover latch for battery door broken on my Coolpix
This is a really common problem affecting this camera and the near identical Coolpix 2100 (and a few others).
If
I'm correct, then the door latch has nothing to lock into on the camera
body because the corresponding catch has broken off. Depending on how
the break has occurred the body either has one or two small plastic
pegs just where you'd expect the battery cover to latch onto or even no
pegs and just barely visible evidence of where the catch used to be.
The two pegs (or the site where they were) used to form a small soccer
goal shape. The top of the goal (crossbar) broke away and sometimes
takes away one
or both goalposts with it. I've successfully repaired six of these now
for various family members and friends.
Both
are an easy fix, and if you live in Europe and pay postage I'll do it
for free (I'm in London). if you live further afield, my offer still
holds good, but the postage may cost more than the camera is worth.
To
do it yourself you'll need patience, a sharp craft knife/scalpel, a
jewellers file, a miniature pair of long-nosed pliers with a wire
cutter, thirty minute epoxy resin and a standard small paperclip.
Regarding the jewellers file: this needs to be a flat profile and about
5mm wide (not critical) and about 1mm thick, i.e. about the same
thickness as the paperclip wire, and must have cutting teeth on the
thin edges as well: this is vital.
First,
straighten the paperclip. It needs to be as straight as you can get it
as it make the rest of ther repair easier. This will form the new
battery catch, so you need to use the pliers to shape it. The new
"goalposts" will have deep roots held by the epoxy redin, so start
bending at the centre of the wire. You need to end up with a cross bar
which is the same width as the original plastic one, which has sharp
right angle bends down to each goalpost which will be longer than
needed at first. The long nose pliers taper so you can grip the wire in
the pliers at just the point where bending the goalposts down will
result in a goal of exactly the right width. It is easy, but takes a
few goes to get exactly right and you may need a few paperclips until
it's perfect. Precision is vital to a good repair which looks original.
Next,
you need to use the file and the craft knife. If the goalposts remain,
then use the knife to cut them off flush to the surrounding edge. Using
either the knife or the file, cut out two slots where the goalposts
were so that they're as precise a fit as possible for the paperclip
wire. If you look into the battery chamber there will be a few plastic
strenghthening webs, so use both tools to cut these to allow the two
goalposts to sit well down into the battery chamber. Go slowly and
carefully as the more accurate you are, the better the job.
Next,
test fit the new catch into the slots you have just cut. It needs to be
a perfect fit and needs to lay comfortably and flat into the slots. You
should be able to slide the goalposts right down until the crossbar
almost touches the edge of the battery chamber. The crossbar needs to
be parallel to the edge of the battery chamber. At this stage you may
find that you have to modify the wire a bit or even discard it and
start again.
Now mix up the epoxy resin, and using a suitable
tool put plenty of it down into the battery chamber between the
strengthening webs which you've just cut, basically fill the areas
bounded by the remaining webs, and go much lighter with the glue as you
get near the edge of the chamber where the battery door will close. You
don't want to get glue right up to the edge. Be careful not to make a
mess and don't get the glue everywhere.
Coat the goalposts
with the glue up to within about 5mm of the crossbar and lay the wire
into the slots, using your tools to push the roots of the goalposts
well into their slots. This is where all the careful cutting and wire
bending will show
Once complete, you should find that the new
catch (goal) you have just made will slide comfortably down into the
slots you've just made. At first, set the height of the crossbar by eye
so that the underside is about 1mm above the edge of the battery
chamber and wipe off even the tiniest traces of stray glue which get
onto the exposed parts of the catch or onto the edge of the battery
chamber. Test fit the door latch into the catch: the mixed glue is
quite thick even before it sets and should just hold the wire
sufficiently for you to determine if the latch fits it correctly. The
thirty minute setting time will give you time to make fine adjustments
to the exact catch position. When you're happy, leave the camera with
the battery door open somewhere for about 24 hours to enable the glue
to fully cure. Although you've used thirty minute setting epoxy, it's
still a bit flexible and nowhere near fully cured at this stage.
Afterwards,
the battery door latch should engage into the catch as if it had been
made that way by the factory. Now try it with the batteries fitted. It
should be perfect, but if not there's usually enough give in the wire
for final tiny tweaks to the fit.
I hope this has helped you,
just sorry that I've never taken any pictures of the process. Your
camera is basic but is still beautifully easy to use and even the 2.1MP
version produces stunningly good photos, so this repair is worth doing.
Please return the favour by rating my answer.
SOURCE: Replacing the battery door on a Nikon CoolPix 4600
Call 3104148107 This is the Nikon Parts line, be warned it will probably take as long as 30-45 minutes of old time to get to a person.
Once you can get to a person, give them the camera model and describe the problem. They just sold me a replacement battery door for $9.95 + $6 dollars shipping and handling.
The rep was so nice he even printed out the device design blow up, and the relevant section of the manual, so I could see the step by step with out having to purchase the full blown repair manual, which runs $83.
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