Change your flash mode from slow synchro to something else, sometimes the redeye mode does this to eliminate red eye by dialating the eyes on the first flash and capturing on the second. Check this link, go to page 48-49 and learn about the different flash settings of your camera.
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I do not know allot about the s5090, but I can give you general information based on how most Nikon pocket cameras are designed to work. If the Nikon is set to one of the automatic modes it is designed to prevent you from taking a picture if it senses that there is insufficient light to get a properly exposed picture. The camera may be telling you to rase the flash because it needs more light. Also, somewhere on your camera there is probably a menu that allows you to choose the flash mode. It may be in your regular menus or, if your camera has a round left-righ-up-down switch on the back, you can select the flash mode by pushing up and then using the right-left keys to choose the flash mode. The mode you select is locked in when you push the button in the center. In general, the modes are automatic (the camera decides when flash is needed), red eye reduction (the flash activates twice; once to cause your subjects eye's iris to close and the second to take the picture), flash always (flashes regardless of the ambient light) and flash off.
That's because of the flash position being so close to the center of the lens. You are not alone with this problem as pretty well every point and shoot camera will suffer some type of flash red eye.
Some of the upper level pint and shoot have a red eye reduction mode that can be used check your manual. What this does is sends out a high intensity light so your subject's pupils will close down then the pictures is made. Others will have a red eye correction function built into the camera. If you have Photoshop I believe under tools there is a red eye correction tool. I'm using Photoshop CS4 and it's in that and I believe it's on PS 7 and PS 5 I'm not sure if Elements has it or not.
There isn't a whole lot you can do about it due to the location of the flash. The flash needs to be above the center line of the lens by at least 6 inches and even then depending on the subject to camera distance it's possible to get red eye.
I imagine your son's wrestling events are held in school gyms with lighting that is less than ideal. If you are taking pictures without a flash then the blurriness you describe could well be due to a slow shutter speed. Your camera is using a slower shutter speed to gather enough light, but your subjects are moving fast enough to cause motion blur in the picture. Either you increase the aperture (larger aperture = smaller f number), increase the ISO number (equivalent to film speed), or you use a flash. If you do use a flash, the built-in pop-up flash is only useful for close shots probably no more than 15 feet away or so. A speedlight flash, such as the Nikon SB-400, Sb-600, SB-700 or SB-900 will project the light much farther.
If you set your ISO manually to 1250 or 1600 and put your D90 on shutter-priority (the "S" on the left dial) then you can use the right rear dial to set your shutter speed and the camera will set the aperture for you. To stop the action you will likely need at least 1/125 or 1/160 of a second. Go as high (fast) as you can--the limit will be your lens. The standard "kit" lenses are mostly F5.6 as the biggest aperture, and that is limiting without a flash or daylight. You might also try a monopod--a one-legged stand--to help steady your camera for you.
Do you mean your subject's eyes are showing "redeye"? This is a common problem with cameras that have the flash very close to the lens. Almost every photo editing program has a tool to remove red-eye. Check your computer to see what you have installed.
In the future, most cameras have a red-eye flash setting which shoots a short flash before the main flash to close down the pupils in your subjects eyes to eliminate red-eye. You could also turn up the lights in the room...sometimes that helps.
There is a function within SCN which is specificly set for photografing children. Try this one.
Other than that try and experiement with different flash types in order to find the correct setting for the flash. You can find the Flash settings: The same place as you chose red eye and switches the flash off/on.
Does your camera's flash have a redeye reduction mode? It should tell you in your camera's manual. Some cameras use a pre-flash method which causes the flash to fire several times in succession before firing the shutter in order to give the subject's eyes time to adjust to the bright light.
Redeye is actually caused by the flash being too close to the camera's lens. That's why you see professional photographers using a flash attached to their cameras by a cable so they can move it away from the lens. Because you have a compact camera, there is no way to change this flash to lens distance.
You might also try just turning the flash off. Unless you are taking pictures in a very dark area, you may find the results to be very satisfactory.
The 3 flashed is “Red Eye Reduction” the flashed caused the iris to close which lessen the reflection off the back of the eyeball. These days most computer software can remove Red Eye.
To turn off the 3 flashes you need to go in through the camera set-up. A side benefit from turning this off is that your batteries will last longer :o)
While I do not have a P72, I find this problem odd. Most flash cycle times are so rapid that your grandaughter could not possible close her eyes in that time period (the travel time for the flash to fire and be reflected from the child's face is far faster than a human blink). The problem may be in pre-flash and not the flash itself. So that redeye-reducing "feature" may be responsible for your problem. Does your camera have a redeye reduction mode on the flash?