Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Bad vibrations The rear drive wheel on the back of the drum ,strips out and ruins the belt. I am on my third set.Any ideas other than trash it.

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  • My reply is May 11, 2010

    How old is the machine and has it had a lot of use?

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Befoer you trash it, check you warrantee info, soundsa s if you have a bad rear bearing. which requires repacing eht back half of the outer tub, as well as a new inner basket, pulley and belt. reason ofr checking is its possible to have extended warr on some or all of theese parts. you ll pay labor to get it done but may save something on parts( over 750 without part warr)

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

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How to replace a drive belt?


Replacing the belt on your machine is pretty easy. You will first need to take the top off. Depending on the model of your machine, there are either 2 screws at the rear of the machine that hold the lid on, or there is a screw at either side of the lid, about 3 inches back from the front, hidden under a couple of oval plastic covers about the size of your little finger nail (Note, these are torque "star" screws). Remove the screws and give the lid a sharp tap backwards with the heel of your hand to unclip it from its fixings. The lid will now lift off. Now go to the back of the machine and remove the lower oval cover (about dinner plate sized) that is held on by about 6 screws. This reveals the empty pump and the end of the motor drive shaft.

From the top of the machine, dangle the belt down and lasso the drive shaft of the motor, move the belt to the centre of the slotted shaft (you should see where the original belt was, because that section of the pulley will be shiny.

Now take the belt in one hand and holding the contact side of the belt (grooved side) against the large pulley wheel that drives the drum, slowly spin the drum pulley by hand, holding the belt in place where you first made contact with the drum with one hand, while guiding the belt on to the drum at the bottom of the pulley as you slowly spin it. The belt will stretch and after one full turn it will be in place. Now just check that the belt is in the correct position on the drum and motor pulley by spinning it a few rotations by hand.

OK, Job done. Now for the bad news. Drive belts just DO NOT "come off" or break on good machines. They come off because there is a fault. The really bad news here is that the usual reason is that the main bearings on the drum have failed causing the drum to "flop about" and causing the belt to dislodge. You should really check the bearings of your drum before you go buying a new belt, because if they have failed then the cost of repair will potentially write the machine off. Below are my standard comments about checking bearings. Please let me know how you get on.


To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 25, 2011 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Replacement belt for a Hotpoint Aquarious Extra WMA40,seem too short, but it's the same size as the one that came off!


They have to be stretched tight, so it will appear a little small. Put the belt over the motor spindle first, now guide it onto the large drive wheel of the drum, hold the belt in the correct place on the large wheel as you slowly spin it to draw it onto the wheel and it will fit. Easy.

Now then, the nasty nasty bit and I hope I'm completely wrong here!

I have once and only once ever come across a washing machine that needed a belt replaced because the belt was faulty. 99 times in a hundred, if the belt has "fallen off" and "keeps falling off" it's because of another problem. They can't simply fall off because they have nowhere to go except on the track they are set on. If your belt has fallen off, I would put good money on there being an underlying problem with the main bearings in the drum failing, allowing the inner drum to "flop about". and allowing sufficient latteral movement in the the large drive wheel for the wheel to wobble and allow the belt to slip off.

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.


Feel free to drop a comment back on this thread if I can provide more help.

Jul 21, 2011 | Hotpoint WMA40 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Cant get my belt bak on really tight fit help


They have to be stretched tight, so it will appear a little small. Put the belt over the motor spindle first, now guide it onto the large drive wheel of the drum, hold the belt in the correct place on the large wheel as you slowly spin it to draw it onto the wheel and it will fit. Easy.

Now then, the nasty nasty bit and I hope I'm completely wrong here!

I have once and only once ever come across a washing machine that needed a belt replaced because the belt was faulty. 99 times in a hundred, if the belt has "fallen off" and "keeps falling off" it's because of another problem. They can't simply fall off because they have nowhere to go except on the track they are set on. If your belt has fallen off, I would put good money on there being an underlying problem with the main bearings in the drum failing, allowing the inner drum to "flop about". and allowing sufficient latteral movement in the the large drive wheel for the wheel to wobble and allow the belt to slip off.

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Feel free to drop a comment back on this thread if I can provide more help.

Jul 21, 2011 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

I HAVE JUST FITTED MY NEW DRIVE BELT ON MY HOOVER WASHING MACHINE HSE130M AND IT KEEPS ON SLIPPING OFF?


This is potentially very bad news I'm afraid. There are very few reasons for a belt to come off. Presuming that you are convinced it is the right size (and it probably is) Then there is a fair chance that the belt is coming off because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum (and therefore the large drive wheel on the back) to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drup up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. If the bearings are bad enough to allow the belt to dislodge then symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and releas the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings
You will have become aware of the spine cycle becoming far noisier recently and pissibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal ar the rear

Jul 04, 2011 | Hoover HF130E Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Instructions on how to replace belt on WF000 1000 spin washing machine


Changing the belt is easy. The reason for changing the belt is the question. If the belt keeps coming off on an aquaruis then it's usually a sign the bearings in the drum are shot. These things hardly ever need a new belt. That aside, I hope you have good reason to change the belt and there is the (Easy) way to do it.

UNPLUG FROM THE POWER SOURCE!!

Take the lid off. On this model I think you will fins a screw, hidden behind a little plastic prise-off cover, on either side of the lid about 2 inches back from the front of the machine.

Unscrew (Torque screws!!! but you MAY get away with a flat screwdriver that fits across the points of the star holes).

With the heel of your hand, strike the top front edge of the lid to make it slip baccwards about a half inch, this releases the clips that hold the back of the lid in place.

At the rear of the machine, at the bottom, there is an oval pannel about a foot wide and six inches deep held on by about 5 or 6 screws. Unscrew and remove the pannel. You can now see the drive spindle on the end of the motor.
Drop the new belt in from the top and hook over the drive spindle (you can see the position the old one was in on the slotted spindle because that portion of the spindle will be cleaner and shinier than the rest.
Now, holding part of the belt, guide it onto the main drum drive wheel (that huge wheel about 2 feet wide.
By turning the drum by hand slowly, you will be able to guide the belt onto the large wheel as you rotate the drum.

Tips:
Having someone spin the drum by opening the door and turning it for you slowly may help

ALWAYS start with the belt on the motor spindle and guide onto the drum wheel, not the other way. You will never get it on if you start with it on the big wheel.

Unless you know the reason for swapping the belt, start worrying.... Occasionally these belts snap. Usually there is an underlying cause if they just "slip off"

Jun 23, 2011 | Hotpoint Aquarius WF000 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

How do i fix on a drive belt to a washing machine?


There is a removeable cover at bottom rear of washer..
Undo this, and you will see the motor and belt.
It will be very tight to put on, but this is normal as it is a stretch belt, that is why there is no adjustment on motor.
Hope this helps you .
Please rate my solution.
Thankyou.

Jan 25, 2010 | Hotpoint Aquarius WF220 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

HOTPOINT WASHING MACHINE - BELT IS RUBBING AGAINST BACK OF DRUM & WEARING BELT + INTO PLASTIC DRUM CASING. I HAVE TRIED MOVING THE BELT TO THE FRONT EDGE OF THE MOTOR PULLEY DRIVE, BUT AFTER A FEW...


if you have gotten that far your good
now try to look at the motor it sounds like your belt might be a lil off track on the mortor shaft
there is a adjustment srew on the top left of the motro its hidden under things but its there
you can looses this and swing the motor
make sure you have it lined up on the motor shaft and it should stay aligned on the pully

Oct 08, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

1 Answer

Dryer makes noise when turning like bearings going or belt squeek


Hi,
check the following -
It's noisy
If your dryer is noisy, check these:

Rollers
Idler pulley
Glides
Rear drum bearing
Blower wheel

Rollers
Many dryers use rollers or wheels to support the clothes drum. When these rollers are worn, they can be noisy. You should replace the whole set of rollers at the same time. 


Idler pulley
Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it. 


Glides
Many dryers use nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn, they can be noisy. When that happens, replace them. 


Rear drum bearing
Some dryers support the clothes drum in the rear with a center spindle instead of rollers. The spindle may be a ball-and-socket type support or a shaft through a sleeve. When the components are worn, they may squeak, squeal, or rub. You can't repair them. Just replace them when they're worn.


Blower wheel
Your dryer's blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermostats, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over time. But if it's noisy, it may simply be clogged with lint. Clean the blower and test to see if the dryer is still noisy. If it is, you probably need to replace it.

good luck.....

Mar 28, 2009 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag electric dryer


a rumbling noise when the dryer starts and stops is a stripped blower wheel located on the front of the drive moter

Dec 24, 2008 | Hotpoint VVSR1070D Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Drive belt out of alignment


check pulley is fully bolted home. also fault could be due to the bearing spider (on the drum) being broken or cracked on one leg. if this was so, would expect spin with clothes to be very noisy. get gack to me if you want. the belt is a stretchy belt ie no adjustment for tightness

May 13, 2007 | Zanussi F1245W Front Load Washer

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