The motor coupling is a small 3-piece component that is installed behind the drive motor and couples it to the transmission. It is common for these small couplers to break as they wear out. The key symptom in determining the cause is the fact the washer will not agitate, but still drains. The reason is because your drain pump is mounted on the front of the drive motor and will still run as long as the drive motor is running. The part number is provided in the link I gave you. A replacement coupler can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price. Make sure you "Search by Part Number" when looking up the part. This shouldn't cost more than $20. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part number I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common item they should have in their inventory.
If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
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Earlier whirlpool tubs had 4 screws under rubber plugs that unfortunately rusted if you manage to get them out then the complete top lifts of the base section
later models just prise apart as they have eliminated the screws
there are manuals on line to download
this is the site to find out how to fix your washer. you have a broken drive coupling. it probably wont agitate or spin, but will fill and drain. you need to remove 2 screws from the control panel, hinge it back and then remove the 2 brass colored clips that hold the cabinet to the base. once you do then pull the entire cabinet forwards to a 45 degree angle and pull it off the base. then pull the 2 clips off pump and then 2 more on the motor. that will allow you to get to the drive coupling. you will find it to be broken. replace it with part number 285753a for about 15-20 bucks.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.