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There is little chance that you can do anything about it. The exact voice coil would have to be identified, the old ones taken out, and replacing them is technically difficult/impossible without the proper tools and experience.
- kkkjohnson - Please clarify your question. Do you mean they stopped working all together. -First make sure the amp going to the subs is still working. -If not, stop and trouble shoot the amp (fuse, loose wires,etc) -If it is working, check the wires going from the amp to the subs -If the wires are connected, your next step should be to dismount the subs and hook them up to a digital multi-meter (DMM) To use a DDM to test the subs ohms do the following: Figure out what the specs of you subs are...ie...what ohms and voice coils the are (dual 2 ohm, 4 ohm, etc. After that, place the black/negative wire/lead coming from the DMM tol the negative terminal of the sub. The place the red/positive wire/lead to the positive terminal of the sub. Then set the DMM to the ohm symbol. It should look like a horse shore symbol. Then allow 5 or 15 seconds for a accurate reading of what the ohms are. For instance a dual 2 ohm sub should read anywhere from 1.6 ohms to 2.4 ohms...each sub is difference. Check both sides/voice coils if it is dual voice coil subs. For instance if your sub is dual 2 ohm sub and you get a read that is higher than the numbers listed above (ex. 8 ohms, .05 ohms, etc); this would indicate that you have a blown sub.
The easiest way to wire this would be to make sure you have a 2 ohm amp, wire both voice coils in parallel to the amp. This means to connect both + terminals on the speaker to the + speaker output on the amp, then wire both - terminals on the speaker to the - speaker terminal on the amp. With the voice coils in parallel like this it makes it into a 2 ohm load at the amplifier. If you are running for example a 1000 watt amp at 2 ohms into this speaker it would give each voice coil the equivalent of 500 watts of power at 4 ohms. The other way would be to run the voice coils in series (voice coil 1 - terminal to - speaker terminal on the amp, voice coil 1 + terminal to the voice coil 2- terminal, voice coil 2 + terminal to the +speaker terminal on the amp.) The series wiring would give you a 8ohm speaker load to your amp so you would need a 8 ohm amp.
they best way to do this is with a multi meter on the OHMS setting.... to do this set the multi meter to the least ohms setting, usually it reads 20 or under. Connect the wires to each voice coil (by the speaker wire connections) if the multi meter reads 2 to 4 ohms whichever your speaker is, then the voice coil is not blown, but if it reads 8-10-12-14 or OL which means open loop then the coil in junk.
SINCE YOU NEED A 1 OHM LOAD, I PRESUME BRIDGED AND ARE USING TWO SUBS, THEN HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE THE DUAL VOICE COIL TYPE, AS THEY ARE DUAL 4 OHM AND YOU WILL HAVE TO CONNECT THE VOICE-COILS IN PARALLEL WHICH WILL MAKE EACH SPEAKER A 2 OHM SPEAKER AND THEN CONNECT THE TWO SPEAKERS THEMSELVES IN PARALLEL AND THIS WILL PROVIDE YOU THE 1 OHM LOAD. IF YOU IN FACT HAVE THE SINGLE 4 OHM VOICE COIL VERSION, THEN IT WILL ONLY PARALLEL THE PAIR DOWN TO 2 OHMS. OK. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
Pull the subs out of the box and check the connections... Check to see if the wires running from the connectors on the sub itself to the voice coil... had a JL 10 that had a frayed wire to the voice coil system would cut in and out. Hope its helpful
i have a problem, i dont think my speaker is blown, but , it just looks like the wiring broke on the coil at the end that connects to the cone, i think thats how i can best describe it..its a 10" pioneer IMPP w/ integrated voice coil cooling system 500w max and also it looks like where the wires broke, the coil cam unglued from the cone.. hope someone can help me..is this something i can repair on my own or is it garbage?