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Transistor d2553 blown and replacement transistors blowing. TV not coming on.

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5 Suggested Answers

maatmartin7
  • 1191 Answers

SOURCE: power supply transistor transistor no. C4237 replaced 4 times. each replacement didnot sustain for a week. which transistor can i use instead.

I have worked to repair a few of these. When the transistor is burned, you most likely have a bad flyback transformer and bad picture tube. In this case you replaced this (transistor) component four times. This TV cannot be saved. Thanks for asking.

Posted on Oct 21, 2011

ladywinn
  • 5138 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced Flyback Transformer and Horizontal Output Transistor

I am proud to see you got your set working Good job!

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • 4234 Answers

SOURCE: sony color TV model kv-c29 11d blown power supply ic and transist

There should be circuit designations printed on the PC board. Without those, there are too many possibilities to give you anything useful. Can you provide those please?

Thanks,
Dan

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: can I use the transistor d1878 horizontal instead transistor c5148, I have the specifications for c5148, but I can not find the specifications for d 1878,someone can help me?

I have Sony TV, transistor D1878 is damage, can i use the another type for replacemen?

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Tevion 42

I ha ve Q101 Q102 and D101 in s/c! is this a normal problem?.

Q101 and 02 are the above w20nm60 d101 is a s20lc60us

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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1 Answer

What's the cause I already install three horizontal output of Samsung TV model number CT-15N30MJ always busted horizontal transistor?


Check the capacitor connected to the collector of the horizontal output transistor to ground for loose solder or open. Replace that freewheeling capacitor [ usually comes between 3900Pf to 9600Pf 2000V]. Replace it with an other one of same capacitance value; before proceed. Even if it blows out the horizontal output transistor; entire circuit should be checked. Check the deflection coil too for shorted winding.
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Apr 26, 2015 | Samsung Standard (CRT) Televisions

1 Answer

Tv blows 2sc4429 transistor


Check the freewheeling capacitor, connected between its collector terminal to ground for loose solder, or damage. Repalce this capacitor, before replacing the horizontal output transistor. If this capacitor is open, the horizontal output transistor will blow off, at the time of switch-on itself. Normally, its value will be grater than 3900pF & lesser than 9800pF[2500V]
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Apr 09, 2014 | Standard (CRT) Televisions

1 Answer

Fuse in power section blow, replaced large cap and diode,but when pluged in, fuse blows again. what should I lood for?


if this an standard crt type tv, the cause either the regulator transistor or horizontal output transistor has shorted pin junction.

Jul 27, 2012 | Standard (CRT) Televisions

1 Answer

No power just went out.....


Hello,

  • A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!
    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).
    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:
    • Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    • Horizontal output transistor.
    • Power supply regulator if there is one.
    • Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    • Diode(s) in main bridge
    • Main filter capacitor(s).
    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.
    Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.
    First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.
  • Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.
  • Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.
    • C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    • B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.
    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.
    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.
    Of course, not much else will work either.
    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.
    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.
    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.
    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
  • hope this helpout.....


    Jul 08, 2010 | GE 25GT240 25" TV

    1 Answer

    Wont turn on power light flashes 4 times


    Hello,

  • A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!
    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).
    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:
    • Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    • Horizontal output transistor.
    • Power supply regulator if there is one.
    • Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    • Diode(s) in main bridge
    • Main filter capacitor(s).
    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.
    Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.
    First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.
  • Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.
  • Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.
    • C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    • B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.
    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.
    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.
    Of course, not much else will work either.
    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.
    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.
    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.
    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

  • hope this helpout....


    Jul 07, 2010 | Philips Standard (CRT) Televisions

    2 Answers

    No power, stanby only


    standby sont tv?...you need to open the back cover of your tv..check whether you fuse are blown/open...if yes,do not replace right away the fuse there might be a problem on the main supplys...using yuor multitester check your horizontal output transistor..it is located near the plyback transformer..if you do not now the correct testing of the transistor replace it with a new transistor...same with the regulator replace it with a new one...then replace the fuse ..your tv is now working again..

    May 18, 2010 | Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV-32FS120 32" TV

    1 Answer

    Fuse blows, Disney DTD1363


    It look like this is the PN p5nk50zfp.
    This site has your part. Data sheet
    This part, it might be your voltage regulator not the horizontal output transistor.
    Good Luck.

    Mar 12, 2008 | Disney DTD1363-CAR 13" TV/DVD

    1 Answer

    Power went out, tv won't come on


    If you are lucky, it's only a blown fuse, but with a blinking light on the front, this is doubtful. I would pull the back cover anyway and check the fuse. If fuse is ok, then normally if you have no sound and no picture, you have a blown "horizontal output transistor". Look for the big wire (usually red) coming from the picture tube to the circuit board. The red wire goes to a large object on the circuit board called the "flyback" transformer". Usually very near this transformer you will find the h.o.t. (horizontal output transistor). It will normally be mounted on a silver piece of metal (a heat sink), about 2 or 3 inches square or possibly rectangular. The transistor has three pins coming out of it and is probably the largest transistor you will see that has only 3 pins. The upper portion of the transistor will be clamped (or screwed) into the metal heat sink. You have to desolder the h.o.t. and replace it with a new one. The h.o.t. usually costs only about $10.00. If the fuse and h.o.t. are good, then the "flyback" is probably bad and they run from $25 to $100. If the TV is worth only about $200, then replacing the flyback is not recommended, because there is no guarantee that this will solve the problem. Keever.

    Mar 02, 2008 | Mitsubishi WS-65908 TV

    2 Answers

    Main fuse blown on CT-32G11 32" Panasonic TV, Replacement fuses continue to blow.


    If the main fuse keeps blowing, check the horizontal output transistor for a shorted condition and diodes in that section as well.

    Jan 12, 2008 | Panasonic CT-32G11 32" TV

    3 Answers

    Sony KV-32HS510, worked perfect, turned on the next day and all I gat is flashing red light.


    Your tv does not need a reset,what happened something went bad inside the set and it needs to be replaced,if you are familiar with tv service you can start by checking the horizontal output transistor for a short,if he went bad it likely made the fuse or safety resistor open.If you are not too familiar with tv service be safe and call for assistance froma servicer.If you decide to go in looking for problems make sure the set is not plug in.Let Us know how it goes or if you need more information.

    Oct 19, 2006 | Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV-32HS510 32" TV

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