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lumens is a measure of light intensity
the lower the number the duller the light, the higher the number the brighter the light average shops have a level of limens around 750 as this is the safe light level for eyes
Wattage is current flow ( amps) and was used as a measure to show the intensity of the light
12 watt bulb is dull in 240 volts situation where a 500 watt bulb as in ( quartz halogen bulbs) is something that will blind you
You will notice a change in readings from incandescent bulbs-- the old units that had a filament in them--20 watt, 40 watt,60 watt, 100 watt to fluorescent lighting where the power saver bulbs have a rating of 12 watts is equal to 60 watts of the old bulb ( a rough attempt to show the lumens ratings )
this was an attempt to compare the light intensity so that customers could see how bright the new bulb would be
Now that there are LCD units , the wattage is so low that a comparison cannot be made so the shift is to lumens as a measure of light intensity ---in reality the results are the same
for example a torch with 3 X aaa batteries as a low lumen rating as you can see by the brightness of the light and if you compare that with the lumens rating of driving lights that light up the road for miles
the wattage(amps)for the big lumens rated lights will still be low compared to the head light s in current use
Tina - I just tried to find this bulb for one of my customers. Amazon had a bulb listed with a photo of the VIVA PBCFS1370 bulb. If you read the comments - someone said they sent a Levitron bulb which does not fit. I think you are stuck going back to where you bought the Hunter fan (I assume big box store) or to Hunter directly. A regular 13W GU24 bulb seems to be slightly too wide to fit in the fan. Hunter's part number is 6755101000 and they were $12 each - but that is in the USA. Isn't that a nuisance!
This links to Amazon site - appears to be wrong bulb:
well, I'm guessing on the tag or label it shows something like this 120V ~ 60 hz 10.5 amps or 120V ~ 60 hz 10.5A or 120V ~ 60hz 11A (some manufactures round up if it falls into the same wire gauge) 120Volts ~ 60hz 1260w or 120Volts ~ 60HZ 1260 watt 120V stands for normal operating voltage "~" means ac current 60 herzts stands for how many cycles
So if your unit shows only amps, it's really simple to figure out wattage
take the voltage shown, in my example it's 120, then multiply the amps, in my example it's 10.5. So 120 X 10.5 = 1260 watts
W = V * A
and vice versus, if it only show wattage and you needed to know what gauge wire you needed to run a receptical to operate it
Depending on the year of your bike, If you changed your signals from a bulb type to a LED type you will need a Load equalizer. If its a bulb to another bulb, Check your voltage at the housing. A change in amps or watts for the bulb will usually only change the brightness, unless you have changed the bulb to an outrageous wattage or amps.
Unplug the refrigerator. For the refrigerator, unscrew the old bulb or bulbs and screw in a new appliance bulb of equal or lower wattage. For the freezer compartment, if a lamp is present, squeeze the top and bottom of the cover together then unscrew the bulb. Then screw in a new appliance bulb of the same wattage and replace the cover.
Note the appliance bulb is an incandescent bulb and may be hot.
If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the bulb you need is part #AP2029997, made by GE. You can also purchase these bulbs at any hardware store. They are the half sized small base, 40 watt bulbs. If you can't find 40 watt, make sure you use a lower wattage rating. If you have questions, or if the model number is incorrect, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
You should use a standard 40 watt appliance bulb (usually clear). The life of compact florescent bulbs is greatly shortened by turning it on and off frequently. They work best being left on for 15 minutes or longer. Cold temperatures can also shorten bulb life as well.
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