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My sea ray 195 sport power boat is only 1 year old and has an alarm going off intermitantly almost everytime we use it. It has been in and out of the shop 10 times and had every sensor changed but the alarm persists. Oil temp, water temp all normal indicating a false alarm and the computer telemetry plugged in in the workshop says the alarm did not go off! Any assistance apreciated

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  • 07iron May 11, 2010

    What engine is in the boat? Is it carburated or fuel injected? Does the boat have mechanical or digital shifting installed? If the boat has smartcraft gauges, what does the display read when the alarm is going off? Just an after thought, is there anyway it could be a depth alarm - this will sound similar to a soft engine alarm.



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Alarm on 2003 115 OPTI MAX

I finally found the problem a defected water pressure sensor.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

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SOURCE: 1996 Mercury 150 Nitro EFI

Dont have the manual in front of me...recollect that there's two types of warnings. The pulsating warning is oil (starts with 30 minutes of oil left) or the fuel filter (or sperator, something like that) may have water in it. Running outboard with cover off, is a little black box that would have a red light lit if that's the case. If oil full & no red light, may be oil injection system...would also check to make sure lines aren't pinched, etc. Mine has been specific to oil the two times its gone off.

The full non-pulsating is engine overheat. Not sure beyond that.

Not much, but hopefully gets you going.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Posted on Mar 12, 2010

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SOURCE: i have a 1989 sea ray boat. Does it have no power

If you look at the coil you will see small wires on either side. One side is a ground and the other is power. Depending on the brand of outdrive you have the wires are color coded.

You should be able to see the color of the wires on the "Plus" side at the coil. Then follow the wiring loom back to the switches hanging by the shift cables on the engine. There are also wires on the UP/DOWN safety switches of the outdrive.

The outdrive must be down somewhat for the safety switches to release the ignition LOCKOUT. This is done because the driveshaft will snap if you start the motor with the outdrive up. Look for matching color coded wires to match the small hot coil wires.

The switches on the shift cables will LOCKOUT the starter solenoid so you can only START in neutral. Look for the color coded wires from the coil to see if they are on the correct set of switches. It is possible someone made a redundant connection and combined the ignition with the starter cutoff.

Posted on May 06, 2010

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SOURCE: Boat won't start

Cleaning the plugs is a good idea. Check your gas for fuel separation. Being outside would give you more fluctuations in temperature even without a heated garage. Without any cover the Sun can beat down on the boat. You would not have mold without the heat building under the shrinkwrap. I see some shrinkwrap jobs now using metal vents on them.

Remember the outdrive muffs when you try to start it. Pyroil has a product with oil in the Starting fluid which may help you getting the engine to fire. Also remember to put the outdrive down so the Safety cutoffs are not killing the spark.

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

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