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Re: need to find out how to wire a pilot switch to outlet
From what you say sounds like you just want to know you have 120v to the plug. In that case wire 1 end to dark and other to lighter color.
If it is a switch its a little differant. You have to know which terminal is HOT when the switch is on and wire ons side of lite to this term and the other side to nutural.
Usually pilot lights are not polarity sensitive so either wire to either line on teh pilot is ok UNLESS THE WIRES ARE MARKED. And you dont indicate that they are marked.
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It sounds like a bad neutral wire. Somewhere the neutral is not properly connected. Most residential wiring operates on a 240 single phase system comprised of two seperate 120 volt legs. Connect between either leg to the neutral gives you 120 volts.connect btween the two legs gives you 240 volts. If the neutral is not present the circuit will search out the other leg to try to complete the circuit causing dimming of lights extremely bright lights and all around chaos. Check ahead of the main to see that the voltage is correct. Check each leg to neutral with a voltage tester. Have some one turn some lights on and off while checking as sometimes a load is required to get fluctuating readings. If the reading fluctuate wildly the problem is between the power grid and the panel. If not recheck on a a couple of breakers and if the readings fluctuate it is on your side of the system.
. Hope this helps
Wired as shown in illustration, the pilot light and the Load will come on each time switch is turned on. The illustration show Load is light bulb. In your case, the Load will be an outlet instead of light bulb. So the Load will have 2 wires. The black wire from switch connects to brass screw on outlet. The neutral connects to silver screw. Bare ground wires connect to green screws.
What is the amp rating for the tub? What voltage are you actually running the tub on, 120 or 240? Is the 120v 10amp two-pole then the switch rating since you mention a switch? If there is no amp rating on the control what is the wattage of the heater element and how much horsepower is the pump rated for?
In the end it seems likely you do not have high enough breaker ratings to carry the pump(s) and the heater at the same time. Depending on the electrical circuit wire size and the breakers and switches you may need to make some adjustments or replace some of the components but I'll/we'll need more details on your existing setup and the tubs electrical demand to help you further.
If this is the model I am thinking of, there are 3 outlets. One 240V (L1, L2, Neutral and Earth ground. Some models use a 3 terminal receptacle that combines Neutral and earth.), one 120V receptacle (L1, Neut, earth) and another 120V receptacle (L2, Neut, earth).
If you verified fuse and circuit breakers are good, turn on the generator and verify you get 120V on each of the two outlets. Measuring between the narrow blades of the two 120V outlets should be 240V.
***Shut off the generator.
With a test light or ohmmeter, check continuity from the earth terminal of 120V outlets to 240V outlet. Likewise for neutral (wider blade on 120V outlet). Lastly, check continuity from Narrow blade of each outlet to the 240V outlet.
I suspect that you miswired neutral and earth. On a 4 wire PLUG, it is customary to connect earth and neutral.
Well 20 amps at 120V is only 2400 Watts. So yes each recepticle can handle 20 Amps. For a total of 4800W Continuous. The head room Between that and 5500W is generally for starting motors and inrush currents.
few possibilities......DEAD-need new one, not connected properly or needs new circuit inside dishwasher. Have you been able to test the power source? Is there power coming from the outlethard-wire? if si is it the full 120v? Dishwashers require a designated line with a 20amp breaker. Without adequate amp thru the breaker to the line it may not operate to it's fullest or turn on.
This may be somewhat difficult depending on the year make and model. I will try to help without this knowledge.
There are 2 sides to the transformer. Read the label to see which is which. One side is labeled 24 volt and the other side is labeled 115 volt.
The 115v side will probably only have 2 wires. A white wire and a black wire. The white one will connect to the common or neutral system. If there is a circuit board it will plug on to the 120v Common terminal (probably marked L2). If the air handler does not have a circuit board, the white wire will connect to the other white common wires by a wire nut.
The Black (hot) 120v wire will connect to the 120v L1 terminal on the circuit board. If there is not a circuit board, read the schematics to find out where to wire nut the black 120v wire to. It will obviously be connected to a 120v incoming hot center after the blower door switch.
The 24volt wires will connect in a similar fashion to the circuit board. T1 will connect to the 24v hot terminal on the board. The T2 will connect to the 24v common terminal. If there is not a circuit board you will need to read the schematics very carefully before proceeding. It may be a good idea to add a 2amp fuseable link on the 24v T1 wire just in the case we are wrong.
The 24v hot wire may be wired in multiple ways without a circuit board. One way is to be wired to the Limit side of the Fan/Limit switch (located on back wall of the burner compartment just above the gas valve. Another way is wired to the gas valve. Please read the schematics located on the blower door. I hope this helps at least a little. Let me know please. Thanks.