Question about Sharp R-1480 Microwave Oven
Microwavesvc, that's what I've had happen with my sharp also, I carved a hook out of a piece of plastic and then epoxied it in, and haven't had any more problems with that.
Another problem I've had with the sharp (that just reoccured, I'm trying to figure it out) is that the micro-switches that the door latch push have gone bad. Originally just one went bad and I replaced it, now the micro has the light and fan on, and won't recognize being closed...
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
you medd whats called a smart board. these go out a descent amount you can get and in stall the board yourself for maye around $100
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Assuming your inside light and
turntable come on when you try to microwave, with the symptoms you have,
I would most strongly suspect a bad magnetron or a loose and possibly
corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:
(if it's not shorted or burned, it'sprobably okay)
The best place to order parts for this brand is Encompass (formerly Tritronics).
Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
Are you talking about the light inside the microwave? The front vent I think will allow you to get to the bulb. Should be a couple of small scrrews holding the vent cover on, remove them take vent off. Start it up again and see if the light bulb wiring or socket is arcing
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
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