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How to defrost a refigerator

The refigerator is supposed to be frost free but there is ice built up on the inside. How do I defrost it?
I also need to see about getting another manual for this product.
Serial # RL302651.

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A simple way to defrost would be to take your perishables out of it and place them in a cooler. Then unplug the unit over night. It will be defrosted in the morning. Regarding the manual just google the name of the fridge. For example if it it an amana, search amana.com


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Posted on Mar 03, 2009

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Why is water coming out under the refrigerator?


Maybe the freezer defrost drain is blocked. Sometimes the water freezes in the drain and the next time the defrost cycle occurs the water can't drain correctly. Is there any water inside the refrigerated section of the unit? Also there may be a catch pan under the fridge that is misaligned or out of place or the drain line isn't positioned to place the defrost water into the pan. Most modern refrigerators are frost free and defrost the freezer on a regular timed cycle. This is why your ice cubes shrink and stick together and why you get freezer burn on the food left in them for extended time.

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Frost free Refrigerators go into defrost cycle every 6-12 hours depending on model.
If frost become visible, on of the defrost system (Defrost timer,Defrost heater, Defrost thermostat) components has failed. The most common failure is the defrost time. If you can locate the time, try to advance it (rotating) into defrost and if you see water coming into the drain-pan within a couple of minutes, than the Heater and thermostat are OK and you need to replace the timer (relatively easy job). If no defrost occur , you better call a tech and avoid replacing unnecessary parts. Caution - Some defrost timer are incorporated into the Ice Maker mechanism are hard to test and must replace the entrie Ice Maker

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Refrigeartor not chilling, freezer not freezing


If you have built up ice inside the freezer walls, and the defrost assembly isn't functioning, this could be the problem.

Defrost the unit! Take all the food out of the freezer side, remove shelves; remove inside back panel. If there is a lot of ice build up there, then your defrost assembly is not working or your refrigerator is not a frost free unit. Defrost either by leaving the freezer door open over night or you can speed the process up with a hair dryer. Once the ice build up is dealt with, you can plug the refrigerator back in and see if it will now freeze the freezer and chill the refrigerator. If it does, and you have a defrost assembly you need to order it and have it on hand when the ice builds up again.

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1 Answer

I have ice forming in my freezer What should I do? Is it defrosting? Model number MBR 2562HES


Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The heavy frost build-up that you are facing is caused due to the result of ice built up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,


Please do Rate the solution, if you feel that this helps you,


Concerned.

Aug 17, 2010 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

The drain at the center-base of the freezer freezes shut with ice. Water accumulates on the frig shelves and under the veg bins. Why and what to do? Frig is a Whirlpool 21 cu-ft ET1CHMXKB03 built in 2004.


There is supposed to be a defrost element that goes through the first part of the drain, it may have been pulled out or it may be malfunctioning. After the evaporator defrost cycle the water should drain through the drain tube, since it's frozen up the water just accumulates in the fridge. If you take off the inside panel that covers the evaporator coils (the coils that freeze up) you should be able to see the evaporator defrost element and the drain defrost element. Inspect the drain defrost element to see if it's in the drain tube like it should be or if it needs to be replaced.

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The defrost heaters are bad. Take the inside back panel out. Take a hair dryer and defrost the back where you took the panel off. You will find a set of coils under the ice. Inside those coils there will be a heater. Either one made of the same thing oven elements are made of or they will be glass with a coil running through it. You can inspect them and most of the time you will be able to see either the glass broken or the coil inside the glass. Or if it's made out of what a ovens is made of you will see where it is burned into. After defrosting, you can put the panel back in and turn the fridge back on. It will work normaly for around three days before it starts frosting back up. This will save your food and give you enough time to either get the part to fix or have someone to come out to fix. Word of advice. If you have someone to fix it, be sure to defrost it at least 24hrs befroe they come because it's iced up they will have to defrost it and as you will see. It takes time and they will charge you by the hour to do it. Good luck
Please rate this solution. Thanks

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1 Answer

Water is leaking on the top shelves in my kenmore refriderator water is leaking on the top shelves in my kenmore I have water leaking onto the top shelf of our Kenmore refrigerator. I believe it goes into...


During the defrost cycle heaters inside the walls of the freezer turn on to melt the frost. The melted frost "water" is supposed to drain into a pan under the fridge where it will evaporate. I think the drain line from the freezer to this pan may be blocked. I'd also check the seal on the freezer door. If it's not sealing well it lets a lot of moisture into the freezer which means more water during the defrost cycle. I'd also recommend checking to make sure the ice maker is not leaking.

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1 Answer

Frige not cooling


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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4 Answers

Fridgedaire doesn't cool till unplugged


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

if this helps please giv a fixya vote

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