I have a alpine 1000w mono amplifier for my two 10in JL audio W3's, I also have a set of infinity component speakers and another pair of kappa speakers hooked up to an alpine amplifier. Both of these amps are running through a 30 farad ackoustic capacitor which is getting its power charge from an optimum yellowtop battery that its hooked up to, It has been hitting hard and sounding very nice and I wouldnt be able to turn my stereo up to loud without having to turn my subwoofers down they were hitting so hard, recently my alternator stopped working and had to be replaced, they replaced it with a remade alternator but assured me it works like a new one but ever since then my subs have not had the same kick and arnt hitting nearly as hard as they used to, now I have to have the subs turned up all the way and the volume louder than I would normally have it and even then they sound weaker than usual. I need help diagnosing this problem as well as a solution to it so I can get my good sound back. thanks
First thing when your care is idleing turn you system up and watch your rpms. Is it going all over the place when you turn it up?If so your altenator isn't putting out enough power.Might be able to fix that problem with another fadar cap. You should buy the digital read out for your cap to see how bad its draws power.They have ones that will mount to the top of your fadar cap.You can all so get a bigger altenator.Also check your ground clean it along with other connection batter,both sides of you fuse and any other connection,bass will loose all bolts/screws over time because of the bass,even to sub have had one work its way off in a year once.
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Placing the speakers next to each other face down, you will notice that the connection points run in sequence +- and +-. Now connect the - (negative) from the one speaker, to the + (positive) of the other speaker. Now connect the open + from the one speaker and the open - from the other speaker to your amp. Your amp should have a bridging indication. On the connection points of the amp, you should see a mark pointing to the first + and the last -. That will be your bridge and thus utilizing the full potential of your amplifier
i beleive they have to be the same amps.an i think they have to be able to handle being strapped together.id look into getting new amps to run it elemental deisgns i know u can strap them together an controll them from the master amp.i dont think alpines handle 3ohms that good either.im going to check a few things an see if u can strap them two amps toghter.if u need more help email me firstname.lastname@example.org
Although amps with 5 channels are pretty rare, you can get one. Alpine, Boston Acoustics, Infinity, JL audio, MTX, and Polk all have 5-channels ranging in price from around $350 up to around $1,000. The Alpine PDX-5 will output 75X4 watts RMS for the front and rear stereo channels and 300 watts to the mono sub channel. It is priced at $599.99 at Crutchfield.
The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
Dual 4 ohm subwoofers can only be wired @ 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm.
2 ohm mono load is not possible.
You will need to use (1) subwoofer to get the 1000W out of the amp.
Wire both positives on one sub to + on amplifier and both - on the same sub to - on amplifier to give the amplifier a 2 Ohm load.
Add a second amplifier, or buy an amplifier that is 1 ohm mono stable.
You can wire both to the amplifier at 4 ohms 600W, but they will share the power and only see 300W ea.
sounds like they have your sub amp in mono but they put the speakers in series which totally cancels the benefit of running your amp in mono. you will probably be happier if you just hook the left speaker to left plus and minus and the right to right plus and minus. Cuz even though subs aren't directional they do pass some higher frequencies that are and that dilutes the stereo effect.