I have a alpine 1000w mono amplifier for my two 10in JL audio W3's, I also have a set of infinity component speakers and another pair of kappa speakers hooked up to an alpine amplifier. Both of these amps are running through a 30 farad ackoustic capacitor which is getting its power charge from an optimum yellowtop battery that its hooked up to, It has been hitting hard and sounding very nice and I wouldnt be able to turn my stereo up to loud without having to turn my subwoofers down they were hitting so hard, recently my alternator stopped working and had to be replaced, they replaced it with a remade alternator but assured me it works like a new one but ever since then my subs have not had the same kick and arnt hitting nearly as hard as they used to, now I have to have the subs turned up all the way and the volume louder than I would normally have it and even then they sound weaker than usual. I need help diagnosing this problem as well as a solution to it so I can get my good sound back. thanks
First thing when your care is idleing turn you system up and watch your rpms. Is it going all over the place when you turn it up?If so your altenator isn't putting out enough power.Might be able to fix that problem with another fadar cap. You should buy the digital read out for your cap to see how bad its draws power.They have ones that will mount to the top of your fadar cap.You can all so get a bigger altenator.Also check your ground clean it along with other connection batter,both sides of you fuse and any other connection,bass will loose all bolts/screws over time because of the bass,even to sub have had one work its way off in a year once.
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Well it sounds like you need a mono block amplifier for the subwoofers. Subwoofers are ment for low frequency. If you try to run regular audio through the subwoofer the sound will become distorted at a high volume. If you have a crossover on the amplifier try putting it on LP. Also do not exceed the RMX rateing on the subwoofer because if you do they will also distort. If you try adding the mono block on to it and it is still doing it you may also be running to much power to the subwoofers.
Your amp based on what you say would have no problems whatsoever with
an 8 ohm load, not even if it actually has dual 4 ohm coils and you
wire them in parallel giving a 2 ohm load (don't know your particular sub).
good car amp has protection circuits to prevent itself or the speakers from
damage from too low loads so it shouldn't be a problem even if you
screw up with your calculations. A good amp should even be capable of dealing with a dead short on a channel, zero ohms, activating protection of course.
All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".
Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.
If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.
So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".
The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.
You can't run parrallel on 3 single voice coil subwoofers. If you run all the negatives from each coil and possitives from each coil to one terminal you will be dividing the ohms by 3. I don't think JL ever made a single voice coil 2 ohm subwoofer though. If you ran a parrallel on 3 8 ohms you would be at 2.7 ohms. 3 4 ohm would put you down to 1.3
Dual 4 ohm subwoofers can only be wired @ 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm.
2 ohm mono load is not possible.
You will need to use (1) subwoofer to get the 1000W out of the amp.
Wire both positives on one sub to + on amplifier and both - on the same sub to - on amplifier to give the amplifier a 2 Ohm load.
Add a second amplifier, or buy an amplifier that is 1 ohm mono stable.
You can wire both to the amplifier at 4 ohms 600W, but they will share the power and only see 300W ea.