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Re: Bottom won't come back out after pushing in for...
Sometimes when you push the cable in i have seen folks get the cable into to far and then the conduit part is inside the connector also and the button will not come back down, make sure you only have the striped part inside the hole. if that does not work you might have to take a jewelers flat screwdriver and pry it down a little, either one should work. if not then either take speaker back to factory if under warranty or remove speaker and change the button. try the first one then the next one them the two common ones. good luck and let me know.
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These tiny mechanisms aren't easy in the least to repair. They were never intended to be repaired. Remove the front grill and remove the driver (Speaker) to get at the mechanism inside the enclosure. An ink pen spring will probably work fine for a replacement. If this fails and you still want to have use of the speaker you'll have to drill a hole in the back of the enclosure and connect to the terminals from the inside of the cube enclosure.
Have your son "play" with it again, or at least have him show you what he was doing when it "fell" out, he may have stumbled on the technique, but chances are a tab has broken off meaning it should be easier to remove now. Good Luck!
The Bose speakers with the cubes and bass module are all interconnected with a proprietary cable available from Bose, if lost you get a replacement by called 1-800-444-BOSE.
When you connect the speakers all wires run from the receiver to the base module first, then out to each of the speakers. All terminals on the bass module are labeled.
The Bose cubes are all identical and can be used in the front or back positions.
Try to keep them at ear level or aimed at the listening position for best sound.
Carefully unsnap the speaker cover you may want to use a jewelers screwdriver or a small flat tip to assist with getting it off. Once its off unscrew the 4 screws completely and then carefully wiggle the speaker from he cube. Once the speaker is out of the way reach in the cube and reset the plastic coupling so its flush with the inside top of the cube. With both cubes on there sides and the rubber washer and swivel ring in place press the bottom cube, with your finger(s) inside the cube on the plastic couping, up into th top cube until you here or feel it snap into place. Once it snaps into place, adjust the insulation in the speaker then wiggle the speaker back into the cube and carefully put the screws back in. Once this is accomplished snap the speaker coverback on and that's it. It takes ten minutes once you get the speaker cover off.
Open up the receiver and check for poor solder connections @ the spkr junctions.
If you can solder, then solder a pin that is THICKER than the wire to it, the Bose wire is fairly thin and the spring clips don't clamp to heavily to thin stuff.
When you push the surrounds in you bottom them out in the connector. Having a thicker wire will eliminate the problem, use a piece of 12ga solid wire from house wiring. Make as many as you need and shrink tube all connections after soldering. Use White for + and Black for -.
Hope this may help but you will disappointed. as heard from some pro, your amp will blow up the bose cube if direct connected to them, they are powering down your output to fit their tiny speaker. My understanding was you have to hook up everything to the bose module. They don't like to play with others.
You probably can do it as long as the speakers there now are 8 ohm speakers and you must use the bose bass module with the cubes because the crossover is built into the bass module for the cubes to work. If you just wire up the cubes you will mess the cubes up and they want sound right at all. The cubes are no good without their bass module in other words. Hope this helps.
Ok… I had the same problem with a Bose separated double-cube Acoustimass speaker/array but was able to fix it as follows: Tools: small, thin, flat-head screwdriver large pliers C-clamp Instructions: 1. Disconnect the speaker wires from the cube. 2. Remove the grille from the top speaker cube. It just pops off. 3. Insert a small, thin, flat-head screwdriver around the perimeter of the speaker. You will have to pry lightly to break the glue’s seal. 4. Using a set of pliers (large, plumber-sized) wiggle the speaker until it comes free. You might need to grip it top to bottom and then left to right. The speaker will come free of the case. 5. Remove the white insulation to get a clear view of the dislodged brace/connector. 6. Stack the top and bottom cubes. Make sure that the rubber seal between the cubes is seated properly and that the black and white cables are not pinched. 7. Using the C-clamp, compress the brace/connector until it seats on one side. Loosen the C-clamp and compress the opposite side. The brace/connector should snap into place. Be sure the make sure that you do not pinch the speak wires that are running through the center of the brace/connector. 8. Test the articulation. It should be the same as your other speakers. 9. Replace the white insulation in the back of the speaker case. 10. Press the speaker into the case’s face. If you wish, you can apply your preference of glue to the edge of the speaker prior to pressing it into the case. 11. Snap the grille onto the speaker. 12. Connect the speaker wires to the cube and you are done.
I had the same problem.
Step one: pop of the grille with a screwdriver or knife inserted from the bottom so that any marks will be hidden when you get the two halves back together.
Step two: If the speaker is held in by screws, you are lucky. Just unscrew the speaker and remove it. If the speaker isn't held into the case by screws, it is a newer model that is glued to the back cover / box. You can separate the glue with a bread knife or thin screwdriver (I used a paint scraper and thin screwdriver). Be careful to work around all four sides. Also, there is a small (about 1/4" long) plastic bump in the center of each of the four sides that clips into a matching groove in the speaker, so you will have to spring apart at least two adjacent sides at the same time to release the speaker from the cover easily.
Step 3: Once you have the speaker out, remove the acoustic sponge, and sit the bottom half on a solid table. Make sure the rubber gasket between the speakers is seated properly and note the position of the 3 notches in the hole of the bottom speaker cover. Place the top speaker cover in place and insert the white plastic 3 pronged clip though the the hole so that the prongs match the notches. Press down hard with two thumbs and it should snap into place.
Step 4: Replace the sponge and push the top speaker back into the cover. Replace the screws if you had them. Otherwise you can glue it again but the clips are quite solid if not damaged by the removal so you can save some effort the next time it happens by leaving it unglued, and just snapping the speaker into place.
Step 5: push the grille back on.