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You say you lost power to the welder. Did you check the circuit breaker where the power comes from in the breaker panel?
It will be a 2 pole breaker. If you mean the welder quit, then you will have to unplug it from 220 volt and open it up where the wire goes into the welder and see if the fuses are blown, if they are replace with the same type of fuses and try to weld again. If they blow again then you have a bigger problem and you should have a welding person take a look at it.
Look on the specifications plate...there will be an input voltage and/or current/wattage rating. If you need to convert watts to amperage then you would use the following formula:
p=e x i or watts divided by volts will give you the current(amps). I think that unit is 240vac(mine is) and I use a 40A 240vac breaker and have no problems(thats 9600 watts)..you will want to choose a breaker as close to the max rating as possible...don't go too high or the breaker won't trip if something goes wrong
I'm not sure why you say it seems to short out. Does it trip the breaker? If the rollers aren't turning, but the tip will still arc, there is something wrong in your drive section. It could be almost anything from a bad drive motor to a bad switch in the torch (hand unit) to a bad controller. It will require diagnosing it with a voltmeter. Since it is clicking, the most likely thing is a bad drive motor as that click is probably a relay that is supposed to run the motor.
Try replacing the breakers in the box if you know how. If the breakers has tripped more than 5 times then that weakens the breaker and it needs to be replaced, this is especially so if you it's 220 volt welder. There may be bus bar wear from arcing and you may have to buy a new breaker and put it in a new slot and not use the breaker that is for the welder at present. If its a stab lock breaker turn it off and remove it and get a new one at any hardware store. IF IT STILL BLOWS THE NEW BREAKER Call an electrician because you may have a lug failing on one leg, if this is the case the box could damage other appliances or kill the side your refrigerator is on or freezer then you have an emergency problem losing the food. let me know if this helped.
Not exactly familiar with this motor but in most ignition systems with points, the wire running to the points is a special resistor wire. It has a certain amount of resistance built into the wire to keep from burning up the points. Maybe you can find some kind of older motor with points and order a resistor wire for that motor to use in your lincoln if you can't get the right wire from Lincoln.