Gas motor runs but does not make electricity

There are a few possible causes for a Kirkland dryer to have a light that turns on but the machine won't run:

1. Broken Belt: If the drum inside the dryer does not rotate when you turn it on, it could be a broken belt. A broken belt will prevent the drum from spinning and the motor from operating.
2. Blown Fuse or Tripped Circuit Breaker: The dryer might not run if it has a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker. Check your electrical panel for tripped breakers or blown fuses.
3. Faulty Motor: If the dryer motor has burnt out, the dryer will not be able to run. You may have noticed a burning smell or an unusual noise before the motor failed.
4. Clogged or Blocked Vent: If the vent or exhaust hose is clogged or blocked, the dryer may overheat and shut down. This can also cause unusual noises.
5. Defective Door Switch: If the door switch is defective, the dryer may not start, even though the light comes on.

To diagnose the problem, you may need to disassemble the dryer and inspect the belt, motor, and other components. If you're not comfortable doing this, it may be best to call a professional technician to troubleshoot and repair the dryer.

With an electric clothes dryer, no heat often means that the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the power has blown; reset or replace it. Be aware that a dryer may have two breakers or fuses. The motor will run when one works, but the heating element requires both.

https://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/clothes-dryer-doesnt-heat.html

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Motor Trouble Cause Diagnostic Procedure Repair Procedure Electrical Power is Off Check that all service switches for the equipment are in the "on" position.
Check for voltage at the pump motor or pump controls. If no voltage is found, check for voltage at the electric panel.
If power is on to the building, check fuse or circuit breaker serving the electric motor that won't run.
Check for local reset button on the motor (popped out = off )
Check for other power reset or power off buttons such as an access door compartment safety switch that turns off power to the equipment (found on A/C blower compartment doors)
Turn on "off" switches.
Replace bad fuse. Reset circuit breaker; if necessary replace bad circuit breaker.
Let hot electric motor cool down, then push in its reset button.
Be sure all safety interlock switches such as on compartment doors are depressed and that the doors are securely shut. Replace a bad safety switch.
See
ELECTRICAL POWER SWITCH FOR HEAT
FAN AUTO ON Thermostat Switch
WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES
CIRCUIT BREAKER FAILURE
ELECTRIC PANEL INSPECTION
Blown fuse, tripped breaker Replace fuse or breaker - does the pump run and keep running normally? Be sure proper breaker or fuse size in ampacity is installed - ELECTRIC PANEL INSPECTION Low voltage to the motor Check with VOM at the pressure control switch or at the motor wiring Be sure the proper size of wire is used for the ampacity and length of circuit; Test for low voltage to the building. Loose, improper, or broken motor wire Check wiring against the motor installation manual diagram, check all connections for tightness, shorts, burns, damage Rewire or repair or replace wWhen a sealed compressor motor has "burned out" this means that the internal wiring of the motor has become irreparably damaged: the compressor motor windings may be burned and shorted together or shorted to the steel shell of the motor, or the windings may have burned and simply become "open" or disconnected. If the motor has burned out in either of these ways it needs to be replaced.

Hi, the possible causes are: Possible Causes: The wall receptacle, power cord (plug) and electrical supply must be in good condition and wired correctly for the dryer to heat.

• Supply Issue - Loose or missing connection on supply wire from circuit breaker.
• Plug Issue - Loose or missing connection in the wall. Defective, worn or damaged wall plug.
• Cord Issue - Loose, missing or incorrect connection of the power cord to the dryer terminals.

If gas dryer and does not heat, Gas Dryer heats with a gas burner, make sure the gas supply line valve is open.
Also, for electric dryer,
Electric dryers require two 30 amp breakers or fuses in the house electrical box to run and heat. If one breaker is tripped or one fuse is blown, the motor, the timer and lights can work but the dryer will not heat.

GAS OR ELECTRIC, IF 220V ELECTRIC CHECK YOUR BREAKERS TURN THEM OFF THEN BACK ON.THE MOTOR WILL RUN IF ONE BREAKER IS BLOWN,OTHERWISE YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWN SENSOR OR HEATING ELEMENT.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

basic problems]
First check these:-
1) Over load cut off (try running it empty)
2) circute failur and fuse blown

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

I have provided the following checklists for both gas and electric dryers; courtesy of www.repairclinic.com. They also provide repair parts, disassembly instructions and diagrams to help assist repairing your dryer.

Firstly, ascertain that you have made a positive heat selection, then read on.

Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Electric Dryer Checklist:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Gas Dryer checklist:

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Ok, you did not state if this dryer is electric or gas so, i will post both solutions for each dryer type.

ELECTRIC--CHECK THE FOLLOWING


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.


GAS--CHECK THE FOLLOWING

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Check the condensing unit (the outdoor section). There are two motors in this unit, a fan and a compressor. If both are not running then you may have a blown fuse or circuit breaker. Fuses are sometimes located in the disconnect box next to the condensor. The circuit breaker is located in your main breaker box. If only one motor is running or neither is running but there are no blown fuses or breakers then you probably have a bad start capacitor. This capacitor should be replaced by a someone knowledgeable in residential 220VAC equipment.