Question about Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer

8 Answers

I am getting a Diverter valve fault code on my Fisher and Paykel GWL10. How can I be sure it is the diverter and not the main board? A number of weeks ago, the small motor on the bottom of the machine was squeeling, so I took it off and oiled the shaft, the noise went away and everything seemed fine, however after the machine starts to fill, well before it reaches a very high level of water, I hear the water start to pump out before ever starting the wash cycle. At this point the water is being filled and drained simultaneously. After a few minutes of this the machine goes into alarm with a divertervalve fault. At this point we shut the machine off, add soap directly to the clothes, restart the machine to comlete the cycle. What's up??

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  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    OK, I received my new diverter yesterday, I installed it right away, and I am still having the same problem. About 3 minutes after starting to fill the machines stops filling, goes into what almost sounds like a shifting mode, and then starts to fill again, only now the pump kicks on and starts draining water at the same time. The machine does this for about three or four tries and then goes into the diverter valve fault. I checked and rechecked all connections etc.. what is happening here??



    THanks!



    Dan

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    There does not seem to be any clogged lines.

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    It is the exact same diverter that came out.

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    I have unplugged and replugged, however only for about 3-4 minutes or so.

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    Underwire support?? I'll take a look.

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    I believe you responded to someone else??

  • danc87 Mar 05, 2009

    I just put a new diverter in yesterday..

  • danc87 Mar 06, 2009

    You may be on to something. THat cooling fan is what started all this trouble. The fan was squeeling very loudly, so I removed the pump and fan, cleaned it up and lubricated the shaft. It was only after I replaced the pump and fan that this error started. In the test mode, I can turn on and off the pump and the fan is spinning. Is there any other ways to findout if there is some issue between the pump and diverter.

    In regards to when the alarm sounds, the only thing I can tell you is that the machine never fills with water because the pump turns on and moves the water to drain long before the wash cylce, and soon after start up....

    Thanks again.

  • danc87 Mar 06, 2009

    I will look into those readings..

  • danc87 Mar 12, 2009

    It was helpful, however I have still not gotten rid of the problem...

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8 Answers

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On the main board check out for ic 320 k and capacitor CR 87T3G they supports this valve to function if the currnent from this components are not proper the valve cannot function properly .let the valve be new as you said you replaced.but low current or faulty ic or capacitor this happens.check out this if faulty the main board components needs replacement. thanks.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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Check also the small cooling fan on the drain pump, that is in line with diverter valve on many F&P, and when it is faulty you get diverter valve error on drain cycle.

Test also if the problem is on drain or on recirculate.

If you do not get anything else then you may have a defective control.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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The valve needs replacement as it stops filling in between and sometimes starts filling that is the job of the valve not the main board.its definately the valve you can go for its replacement.its worth getting it repaired before it gets more damaged in testing and checking.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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It's slow to fill Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve. Q - My washer seems to keep filling with water, the water keeps coming in the washer and going out the drain without the washermotor running.
A - This often is a drain hose that is too low or a drain hose that has been pushed too far down inside the stand pipe....the water is actually siphoning out of the washer. Do not "seal" the drain hose to the house plumbing pipe, this will also allow the water to be siphoned out.
Q - My washer will not fill with cold waterA - More often than not, this is a bad fill valve. Please see the filling section.Q - My washer fills slowly with water, what can I do ?A - Two things could be your problem...1) - sometimes the screens in the fill valve or inside the ends of the fill hose get clogged up...use a tooth brush to clean them out. Don't forget to shut off the water first before removing the hoses to check for this.2) - The fill valve itself may not be opening fully = time for a new fill valve.
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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  • Fisher and P... Master
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Take the hose off the pump from the tub and get the underwire support out of it.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Mar 06, 2009

    I think you have an object holding open the flap on the pump allowing the water to drain as it fills. Get that out of the pump.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Mar 06, 2009

    The pump does double duty on this piece of work. The diverter valve recirculates water constantly over the clothes during the wash cycle and then opens to allow for discharge. Twist the pump a quarte turn and remove the motor impeller assembly and get the gookus out the dand pump.

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I wish I had seen this yesterday before you spent money on that diverter. Hope you can return it. How long did you leave the machine unplugged for? 4-8 hours? You should at least try and reset the machine somehow. I don't know if your particular model has a pin code for resetting or not. Usually unplugging will do this. If you cannot, and the diverter didn't change anything, than you know it's the circuit board

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 12, 2009

    I believe that you have a fault in your cycle system board. IF your pump's valve isn't jammed. The system should have a device which contains a valve that changes direction of the water flow.

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Ensure that is the correct diverter for that machine

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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Check there is some clog in the line, and also check is there any stuck on the machine.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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1 Answer

Fisher Paykel GWL11- US Washer


- Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 1:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

3 - Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 3:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

9 - Size setting fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 9:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Reset machine size as per service manual instructions. If fault repeats replace Motor control module.

10 - Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 10:
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: Replace Thermistor.

11 - Pressure Sensor Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 11:
Primary Source: Pressure Tube.
Action: 1 - Empty all water from the machine. Remove pressure tube from pressure sensor, clear pressure tube of any water and reconnect tube (blow down the tube is necessary). 2 - If fault repeats, replace Motor Control Module.

12 - Flood Protection Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 12:
Primary Source: Water Valves.
Action: If the water valves are on continuously, check that the water valves turn off mechanically by disconnecting power to the machine.
Secondary Source: Pump System.
Action: Check pump for blockage and drain hose for correct height(end not immersed in water) or kinked.
Tertiary Source: motor control module.
Action: If water valves are been driven on electrically, replace motor control module.

36 - Water Leak Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 36:
Motor control module has needed to top up the water level more than 4 times during wash/rinse cycle. Most likely cause is waster siphoning out or the machine has developed a leak.
Primary Source: Drainage system.
Action: Check that the hose is not less than 850mm from the ground
Secondary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Make sure the pressure tube is fitted correctly and doesnt have any holes.

37 - Blocked pump:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 37:
Primary Source: Drain System.
Action:
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2. Check the length of the hose. 1m is maximum extension.
3. Check drain pump winding for open circuit.(Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut out and will reset after cooling)
4. Check for physical blockage to pump and hoses.

38 - Pressure Sensor Fault(empty reading during wash cycle):
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 38:
Primary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Check if tube is fitted correctly, check for blockages or holes in the pressure tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module
Action: Replace the module.

39 - Pressure Tube Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 39:
Same as fault 38.

40 - Bowl Dis-engage Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 40:
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action:
1. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can also stop the bowl rotating.
2. Check the clutch splines for physical damage.
3. Check that the pressure tube has not come off, kinked or blocked(blow down the tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Board.
Action: Change Board.

43 - Out Of Balance Switch Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 43:
Motor control module has found that signal returning from the out of balance switch indicates that the switch is permanently on or the harness to it is disconnected.
Action:
1. Check the level of the machine.
2. Check wiring to the switch.
3. Check switch for continuity and corrosion.

44 - Water in Bowl During Spin:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 44:
Primary Source: Drain system.
Action: Check for blockages/kinks in drain hose and function of the drain pump.

48 - Hot and Cold Inlet Valve Incorrect Signal:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 48:
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check the wiring.
Secondary Source: Inlet Valves.
Action: Check the resistance of the coils.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Change Module.

49 - Cold Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 49:
Action: See fault 48.

50 - Hot Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 50:
Action: See fault 48.

51 - Diverter Valve Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 51:
Primary Source: Blocked diverter valve.
Action: Check for foreign objects in the valve.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module & Diverter Valve
Action: Plug the machine into the power point but off at the control panel. Check voltage on the plugs at the diverter valve. If voltage around 230V, change diverter valve and motor control module

Oct 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Pumps out instead of recirculating


Is the valve installed the right way.
When diverter valve is powered will pump water over bowl.
Your motor controller board may be faulty,
And need diverter driver parts replaced.
Set you machine to Traditional wash only to bypass
Eco active filling that users diverter valve.

Jul 08, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher Paykel Intuitive...

1 Answer

Error code 52


51. (00110011) Phase 5 ECO - Recirculation Fault
The product has detected that it is losing water during recirculation.
Primary Source - Diverter Valve Wiring
Action - Check diverter valve harness is correctly fastened to diverter valve. Check flying lead
in motor controller, and connection to valve next to drain pump.
Secondary Source - Diverter Valve
Action - Check diverter valve resistance. If open circuit (nominal is 1500 ohms) replace
diverter valve. During recirculation, check that water is being recirculated back into the bowl,
and that no water is coming out of drain hose. If there is some water coming from the drain
hose, then the diverter valve could be faulty, or it could be jammed with a foreign object.
Replace diverter valve.
Tertiary Source - Motor Controller
Action - The diverter valve drive circuit may be at fault. If the primary and secondary checks
pass inspection then replace the Motor Controller.
52. (00110100) Phase 5 ECO - Recirculation Fault
See fault code 51.

Apr 02, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

3 Answers

What does fault code 51 mean?


Error code 51 usually means a faulty diverter valve. Try and run a wash cycle, and observe the drain hose. If water comes out, the diverter valve should be fine, if no water comes out you should take your diverter valve out and check for debris, or continue to read through the following possibilities of why your washing machine is acting up, and the actions to take.

1. Diverter valve
Action - Check diverter valve continuity. If open circuit, replace diverter valve.

2. Motor Controller Board (drive circuitry blown).
Action - Replace Motor Controller Board
3. Diverter valve harness/connectors.
Action - Replace wiring harness

Jul 13, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Fisher & Paykel GWL10 question to Rescue Tech


First scoop out the water or run the pump in diagnostics mode and use a pitcher to bail out the water as it flows from the recirculation hose. Next, tip the machine back enough so that you can set something like a gallon paint can or other sturdy object under the front left corner of the machine to keep it propped up while you work under it. These machines are actually very lightweight. You do not remove the tub to service the diverter. There is a single 3/8" hex head bolt (which also is recessed with a phillips head) that secures the diverter to the base via a white nylon band. Remove the bolt, then remove the band, which is actually wrapped around the drain hose . Now remove the two wires, and the three hose clamps and all three hoses. Pop the valve out and take a close look at that diverter, if it is broken at the tab, this will be obvious.

The diverter is part number 426862P. You can order one here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/category.php?category_id=54

Feb 06, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer

1 Answer

I have a gwl10 and during the wash cycle there is water coming in but the drain pump keeps running during the fill cycle.


The pump itself is supposed to run during the fill portion of the REGULAR cycle. It is supposed to be mixing the incoming fresh water with your laundry detergent and pouring the solution on your clothes as the tub rotates slowly. If the water is draining out of the machine, then there has been some sort of issue with the DIVERTER VALVE. It either has a broken lever on it or an object has become wedged in it, holding it open all the time. If you try the PERMA PRESS cycle, you will probably find that cycle will work, as it does not use the recirculate function.

I would check the diverter valve first. You can tip the washer back and remove the hose clamps with no tools and shine a light up inside and look for an object. You also can inspect the lever and will clearly see if it is broken.

If the washer needs a diverter valve, the part number is a 426862P and is easy to change. You can get them from Fisher Paykel Parts:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/111-4/Diverter-Valve-GWL10-11-15.php

They also have downloadable service manuals (but I have pretty much told you what you need here)
Here is the GWL10 manual:

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/115-15/GWL10US-Service-Manual.php



Dec 19, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher Paykel Intuitive...

1 Answer

Fisher paykel gwl11


Hi Alan.. usually if there is a problem where the diverter valve is not sensed by the machine control, it will throw a fault code and beep and not complete the cycle. There should be a tech sheet under the control panel. Did you make sure you properly re-connected the two orange wires on your new diverter valve?
I certainly have encountered several over the years where the control stops puting voltage to the diverter in recirculate mode.

If you want to be able to use all the cycles on the machine, then you need a new control board. That is part #420094USP and can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts direct;
http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=111&productid=26

If you need to do laundry in the meantime, use the PERMA PRESS wash cycle, it should work for you, as that cycle does not use the diverter valve.

Also inspect your water pump and make sure it isnot wet or leaky, as this can cause the machine control to either short out altogether or lose functionality on some cycls such as you are experiencing.

I hope this info is helpful to you.

Dec 10, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

F & P - GWL10 - Diverter Valve issue


Sounds like you might have the drain hose too far down the stand pipe and it's siphoning, try bringing the drain hose up a little.

Jul 15, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Fisher and Paykel Smart Dribe 608


not familliar with that exact model number ( we dont have that over here in the US) we have simalair f&p gwl10- gwl11) that problem sounds as if either the pump is bad and overheating before pumping all the water or a diverter valve is not fully closing allowing water to remain in tub.














Mar 29, 2008 | Washing Machines

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