My vacumm is leaving scuff marks on my hard wood flooring

replace the vacuum head as the rollers are missing

squeeks in a hardwood floor most times are caused by the hardwood separating from the underlayment (board) and hence it piviots on a nail and you got a squeak !! , there are a few ways to fix this "

if the squeak is located in a spot that is accessible from under the floor , see if you can determine what hardwood and underlayment thickness is , look around behind a floor casement or around a doorway trim with flashlight , find a wood screw that is 1/8 less than this number (two added together ) also locate a drill that is just size of screw shaft you found , drill hole from under the floor (underlayment) just deep enough to penetrate the underlayment (3/4 inch or so) use tape on bit as a gauge , don't drill into hard wood then drive wood screw into hole , the idea is that screw will pull hardwood down to underlayment , screw cant grip underlayment due to hole so this is piviot point . a shot of wood glue on screw threads helps it from coming out too !!


now if space under squeak isn't accessible this is a bit harder but not impossible to do , there are a few special items to get first , one is a glue injector needle !! this typically is used making wood furniture but I have seen a meat basting syringe used in a pinch too, locate the spot close to squeak from top , using a small drill dril down at seam (not in middle of board) just deep enough to hardwood Not underlayment , load up your syringe with wood glue and force it down into hole with needle takes some force to do this , wipe off spilled glue and set a heavy object on this spot for 24 hrs object can be a lg pile of books or I use cement blocks (4) set on a piece of butcher paper (not cardboard) after 24 hr remove blocks and ck for squeak if none use hard setting tinted wood filler to plug hole you made and top off with a dot of varnish to seal it when dry and flat if you still detect the squeak then move over a board or two and repeat process till squeak is gone

It depends on what sort of finish you want or need, what sort of area and whether it is to be maintained by hand or machine.

The timber must be very smooth and level for a gloss finish or every blemish will stand out whenever the light reflects off the surface.

Floor wax is high maintenance. It can be polished to a decent semi-gloss finish if the floor is sanded to a high standard but it is hard work to achieve and although wax protects the wood it does rather show marks too readily.
Wax is not for worriers.

Semi-gloss or nearly matt is the most practical finish for most people most of the time. Oil is the best preservative for the timber and it will produce a well-defined grain colour but later needs further protection.
There are many propriety finishes available and the hardest wearing is those based on polyurethane.

One of the schools I attended years ago had parquet floors throughout. They had been sanded smooth and sealed and then a mixture of sawdust and wax was swept back and forth several times periodically.
Once or twice each week a polishing machine with soft revolving brushes was pushed back and forth a few times.

Turn the machine on and look at the bottom. Turn to the two settings. The setting that stops the platten wheel from moving is for hard wood floors. If you cant tell, then setting 1 is most likely for carpets and 2 is for hard wood floors. Your machine is primarily a carpet vacuum cleaner, so 1 should be for carpets.

Follow the link below to download a copy of the User's Guide.
http://www.bissell.com/searchresults.aspx?searchtext=25A3&searchType=search&mode=userguides
The wood floor cleaner will work on your tile.

Do the rear drive wheels have the rubber on them or are they worn off and it is just plastic now.