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I HAD TO REPLACE THE CAPACITOR ON MT INTERTHERM A/C UNIT

A RAT GOT UP INSIDE THE WIRING AREA AND FRIED. I HAD TO REPLACE THE CAPACITOR AND WANT TO MAKE SURE I PUT THE WIRES BACK. ON THE RIGHT PRONGS AFTER I HAD TO TAKE THEM OFF AND CUT THE WIRES FROM WHERE THEY WERE BURNT FROM THE RAT) AND DIDNT PUT ANY WRONG ON THE PRONG

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  • CLAUDIA Mar 03, 2009

    THIS IS A 3 TERMINAL CAPACITOR, 4 WIRES. I HAVE A BLUE AND ORANGE WIRE IN THE 2 FLAG TERMINAL AND A RED WIRE ON THE 3 FLAG AND A BROWN ON THE 4 FLAG TERMINALS. LIKE BEFORE I CHANGED THE CAPACITOR I GOT THE COMPRESSOR TO COME ON BUT NOT THE FAN MOTOR. I HAVE A FEELING THE FAN MOTOR FOT SHORTED OUT BY THE RAT, THAT IS JUST HOW MY LUCK GOES. AND SINCE I CANT AFFORD TO PAY ANYONE TO DO ALL THIS FOR ME. I AM DOING MY BEST TO DO ALL THESE REPAIRS.

  • CLAUDIA Mar 03, 2009

    I MENT TO SAY A YELLW WIRE INSTEAD OF BROWN. AND THE BLUE, ORANGE, AND RED WIRE LOOKS LIKE THEY GO INSIDE THE UNIT, I GUESS TOE THE COMPRESSOR AND FAN? AND THE YELLOW WIRE IS A JUMPER WIRE

  • Farley Redfield
    Farley Redfield May 11, 2010

    I need to know how many wires and how mant terminals the capicator has. Beware there are 2 or 3 terminals with multipl flag terminals on them so count the terminals 2 -3 then tthe wires. And what do the wires go to?

  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    Was this a 2 rterminal capacitor on the inside unit or a 3 terminal capacitor on the outside unit?

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Most common color codes are Yellow or Red from the H(herm) terminal of the capacitor to the compressor, Brown (sometimes with a white stripe) from the F(fan) terminal to the outside fan motor. Then Orange is usually a hot lead from the contactor to the C(common) capacitor terminal. Looking at the other outside fan wires you often see purple picking up power from the same C(common) capacitor terminal and a black wire going to the contactor output opposite of the orange wire... but of course that's the same as purple and black being on the two contactor outputs. Lots of contactors nowadays switch only one side, so be aware your fan is hot when not running and can short through a bad capacitor to ground and burn up the fan wires. Switching to a double pole contactor is easy to do but will disconnect the compressor warming element -- needed in cold climate areas. You'll know if you have this because there's 5 wires going to the compressor instead of 3 and the two smaller size black wires go to the contactor switched side so that they are OFF when the contactor is closed... and pull current to the heater through the motor circuit via the bridged side of the contactor when the system is not running. So if you want a system that's really off when the contactor is open you need to decide if the warmer is required and how to connect it via an additional relay that will be normally closed (NC). These can be purchased as add-on or bolt-on switches to fit on some contactors or buy a contactor with a normally closed switch -- in addition to the 2-pole switch for main functions.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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Ok you have to trace the wires on down to what terminals they go to on the fan and especially the compressor. Usually you cant go by colors but always by the names on terminals and the like.

The capacitor has labels like (C or Com) (Fan or F) and (Comp or Herm). The compressor has terminals like (Com or C) (S or start) and (R or Run)

Write all the colors down on the compressor and the terminals that correspond to the colors.

Then do the same for what you can trace to the fan motor (usually there are only 1 or 2 going to the fan motor) If it just goes into the fan motor write down all the colors that go from the capacitor to the fan motor. The other wires from your description haven't been chewed or removed correct? If this answer is other than correct we have another step to perform.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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