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Re: cannot reassemble trigger for remington yardman
Clarification Request Posted by mckinney3232 on Mar 15, 2009 i'm going to need a little more info to help you on this one. need all of the numbers you can get me on your saw. (model, serial, etc.) then i will be able to walk you through it or get you a diagram to help. thanks. You must help us if we are to help you.
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I have not disassembled my Remington Pole saw but mine has a two-wire circuit (no ground) so it should not make any difference which wire is connected to which post. Preferably, though, you should match wire colors. There should be some kind of connector block linking the trigger switch to the incoming power wire and the wire that runs to the saw motor. Attaching the new wires should simply be a process of reversing the procedure you used to remove the original trigger switch. If you cut the wires to remove the old switch, hopefully, you left enough wire end to strip them and solder the end of the new switch to the old wire.
The two halfs of the rear handle do not seperate, once you have removed the r/h side grip you can remove the throttle lock, you then need to remove the pivot pin from the trigger with a pin punch, the trigger can then be pulled down and out, you may need to disconnect the throttle wire from the carb if you cannot drop the trigger far enough to remove the wire from it.
Remove the air cleaner and watch the throttle arm on the carburetor while operating the throttle trigger--suspect that the trigger assembly has acquired sawdust and dirt sufficient to limit proper travel of the trigger mechanism. Careful notes as you dis-assemble the trigger will help get it back together properly. There is little except proper maintenance to prevent debris accumulation in the trigger mechanism. Note: air leakage behind the carburetor can also cause high idle speeds--make sure the carburetor is fastened securely and that there are no flaws in the gaskets and heat insulator located behind the carburetor. Hope this helps!
It seems that Mac engineers could have come up with something better than the M.M. kluge that they did. The problem is hooking the wire link to the plastic hook on the trigger plastic casting while juggling the front case and engine body. It appears that it should just snap together, but knowing how plastics get with age, it would appear that the trigger should be replaced every time the case comes off. I had trouble with mine and wound up straightening out the wire link end somewhat to force the parts together--it continues to work though. Hope this helps!
Try blocking the throttle arm on the carburetor in the wide-open position with a small stick, then deal with the trigger mechanism. In order to remove the cable from the carburetor, you need to remove the carburetor itself, then unhook the cable end at the throttle arm. Keep track of which fuel hose goes where if you do this. Hope this helps!
Remove the air cleaner assembly to see the carburetor throttle mechanism and open the handle so that you can access the throttle trigger. There should be either a cable or wire connecting the trigger to the throttle arm on the carburetor. Try moving the trigger and see if it responds at the carburetor. Is the carburetor arm against the idle stop screw, wide open, or some where in between? There should be a spring at the throttle arm that returns the arm to the idle stop if the cable/wire is disconnected. The trigger mechanism may be jammed with sawdust to prevent movement. Hope this helps!
Remove the air cleaner which usually exposes the carburetor--operate the throttle (engine off) and watch what moves--likely wood chips blocking the action--less likely, a wire linkage got bent somehow, or there is sawdust in the trigger mechanism. From your description, this saw starts full-throttle at the get-go. Sort of dangerous!