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Re: FRIG. NOT GETTING COLD
Switch off the fridge immediately and allow the compressor to cool off. It is possible that the defrost element is not working, causing a build up of ice in the freezer side. But this should not cause the compressor to overload. The compressor thumping and then stopping can be caused by low voltage supply or a blockage in the refrigerant system
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Usually that is caused by a bad defrost heater thermostat or defrost timer. Failure to automatically defrost is the cause of freezing up.
If you don't feel up to doing the work yourself you should have an appliance repair shop look at it.
The gurgling is caused by water in the catch pan under the fridge. When you defrosted it some of the water made it into the drip pan (and maybe overflowed onto the floor). The fan inside the compressor area under and behind the freezer may be splashing in the excess water in the drip pan. This by itself is not a real problem since it is designed to automatically evaporate the water drained during automatic defrosting, but the excess water and potential overflow onto the floor can become a problem.
MAKE SURE THE FANS ARE RUNNING FREEZER AND COMPRESSOR, THEN CHECK THE BACK WALL OF THE FREEZER IF ITS FROSTED UP YOU HAVE A DEFROST ISSUE. IF THE COMPRESSOR AND FANS ARE WORKING AND NO FROST IN THE FREEZER THATS NOT A GOOD THING..
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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on
and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
How to check stuff> http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold
air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and
fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the
back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
PROBLEM). Heavy frost indicates defrost problem.
Well there a couple things you can check. Pull away from wall and remove the lower cover over the compressor. Either the compressor is stopping on and off too much or the evaporator fan or the condenser fan is stopping while you do not know it. Tell me how hot the top of compressor is. We may have a bad motor starter and start capacitor along with overload. Let me know what you find and I may very well get you going again, Sea Breeze
My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. *One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter. New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here. On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.
is the fan in the freezer working when compressor is on? if not you need to replace it. do you have a large frost build up on the back wall of the freezer? if so you have a defrost problem, or back to the evaporator fan. If the fan is working you have a defrost problem which could mean a bad heater, timer, or bad defrost thermostat....
There is one compressor, condenser and evaporator in all refrigerators. The part that makes the cold inside the unit is the evaporator. It's in the freezer, behind a barrier on the back wall. It's a "coil" with many small fins. There is a fan that blows air over the evaporator which makes the air cold. This air comes from the freezer and stays in the freezer. The cold food section (the refrigerator) has a control that opens a hole for air to pass from the freezer to the fridge. This being said...you can rule out the "temperature control" for the fridge.
The sound you hear could be the compressor relay, the evaporator fan or maybe something else. It could be bad, it could be not too bad. (Like a fan blade a bit unbalanced with dust)
OK,,, back to the evaporator. There is a little heater next to the coil that turns on every 8 hours or so to defrost the coil. That's called the "defrost cycle". Makes sense, no? If the defrost timer (common problem) or defrost control board (common problem) go bad, your evaporator coil freezes up, and that's not good for anything in your refrigerator. But it can often keep the freezer section cold. You can easily disassemble the evaporator cover in the back of the freezer and take a look. If it looks like a block of ice, you probably have a defrost issue. An even, thin coat of frost is OK, but lots of ice is a no no.
Is your fan blowing in the freezer?
Frost on the back wall of the freezer usually indicates a defrost problem... defrost themostate, heaters, take back panel off and check evap for frost build up and if your fan in working.