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Its not hard! You need to purchase a tool that goes into your spark plug hole. You remove the spark plug, put this tool in the hole. This tool stops the piston from moving so you can remove the nut holding the clutch. The clutch is what the drive sprocket is attached to. The drive sprocket is where the chain fits on at the engine side. remive the bar and chain and you will see the clutch. Use the tool and then use a wrench that fits the nut on the clutch. be sure you know which way removes the nut. It could be opposite of what you think. some are left hand threads some are not. I think these are not. After you replace the clutch be sure to lube the clutch bearings. Most people don't know this! use a grease gun made for saws and insert it into the hole at the end of the shaft that holds the clutch. Also next time your saw cant saw through a piece of wood, do not give it gas to make the chain try and move.This is what burns up the clutch! If your saw stalls out, and you press the throttle and it still doesn't turn. Always allow the chain to move, pull back and lift up on the saw slightly to get the chain moving again.
The chain may have come off the sprocket. There are 2 nuts about an inch apart down just past the bar which hold it in place. Remove the 2 nuts, take off the cover which they hold in place and the bar and chain will loosen. Check that the teeth on the inside of the chain are on the sprocket. Pull the chain tight against the sprocket and move it. Check that the sprocket turns. With the chain set in the sprocket replace the bar, chain and cover and try turning it again by hand. If it doesn't turn don't try to start the saw as you'll do damage.
If the chain was on properly and it still won't turn the clutch may be burned out. However the fact that you couldn't turn it by hand suggests that the chain was off the sprocket.
Look on the side of the saw, where the blade/chain enter the plastic case. You will see a nut in there. Loosen the nut, then push the bar backwards towards the saw. It will put slack in the chain and you can pull it off the sprocket/clutch in there. (Use a screwdriver if you can't reach in there with your fingers) and wear gloves... even a dull chain can gouge you if your fingers slip. Once it's off the sprocket, then just pull the whole chain off. To install the new one, put it around the sprocket, make sure the chain guides are lined up with the groove in the bar and on the tip of the bar, then pull out on the bar (away from saw) to take the slack out of the chain. Holding the bar firmly to keep the tension on the chain, tighten the nut again. Bada-bing you're done. Should only take about 5 minutes to change it.
ok i assume it is an electric chain saw? chain usually gets loose and can jump off clutch sprocket . to remedy this there should be atleast one nut or bolt sometimes two nuts or bolts depending on brand and model on the side cover where bar and chain inter the clutch area remove those and cover will lift off second there is a screw that faces front next to bar should be a regular slotted screw head loosenit all the way up till bar gets loose and remove bar by pulling away from saw this will come off veryeasy and chain shoouls fit on teeth of clutch sprocket and fit back onto bar tighten screw till chain tightens up on bar then replace cover and nuts on side cover but do not tighten the with one hand put tension on chain by pulling down on it while tightening screw till chain feels elastic snapping back to bar then toghten up nuts . chain should have no more then 1/4 inch slack around bar this is the correct tension youshould maintain.
There is two types of sprockets, a spur type and a ring type both are similiar to change.
Spur: remove the side cover & remove the chain and cutter bar then you will see the clutch cover and the sprocket attached, remove the little E clip in the centre and the cover will come out be careful not to loose the little roller bearing, To replace lube the roller bearing DO NOT get oil in the clutch assy otherwise you will have big dramas, and reverse the above steps... be sure to tension the chain correctly if your not sure get somebody that is qualified to check it.
With the ring sprocket it is exactly the same except you do not have to replace the clutch cover the ring just locates on a spline on the clutch cover and reassemble the same as above...
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
Does the motor continue to run when chain stops? Electric saws usually don't have a clutch, so I would look for badly-worn chain sprocket, or a possible sheared key in the sprocket hub, or a loose mounting nut. Remove the chain and bar, try to turn the sprocket by hand (wear good gloves). There may be some type of overload clutch built into the sprocket.
Remove the chain and bar cover. Remove the chain and bar. Remove the nut on the drum (Air impact wrench is best for this if you do not have one use wrench and hammer to loosen the nut) Remove the drum you will then have to remove the clutch by striking with a brass rod and hammer.
you need to replace the clutch, you woould pull the side cover off and remove the bar and chain. then you remove the nut holing the clutch on( the clutch and sprocket should be on piece) take it to your local saw shop and grab a naw one.