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Could be a couple of things. Transformer can be bad. Try connecting the two wires (usually wired red and white) from the transformer to terminal W and C on the circut board. Your bypassing the transformer and if installed a current sensing relay. The furnace transformer will/should handle the extra load. Turn on the furnace, if still not working, loosen the water supply line at the water solenoid on the humidifier, if water flows out then your supply valve isn't clogged, if no water then try screwing in the needle on the supply valve all the way in then back out. If still no water then the valve is clogged. If all is good then it looks like the water solenoid is bad or wiring to valve/humidifier control. Don't find the controls bad that often. Have fun!
The first thing to check would be the filters in the house to make sure they are clean, then check for any blockage. One easy way of seeing if the airflow is good, just put your hands in front of a vent and see how its blowing. Your furnace has what you would call sensors, and if they sense the air flow is inaccurate or to hot inside the unit, the unit will run, but not light. Also, if it tries to relight to many times, the furnace will go into lock out and you have to manually reset it by cutting the power to the furnace. Its kinda hard to diagnose these sometimes over the pc, but I hope it helps.
Go to honeywell.com
Under red welcome sign
Bottom red highlighted box literature/image search
Type in thermostat model number
Click on arrow to right
Then click on the PDF files owners manual / installation instructions
Maybe I can help. this is 24v so it doestn't matter which wire goes where so here goes. 2 wires from humidistat go to furnace, split one of the wires(not both) so they reach the yellow wires on the humidifier. with marettsconnect one of the split wires to one of the yellow wires. do the same to the other split wire and yellow wire. what you should get is one wire from humidistat to furnace then one wire from humidifier to humidistat and one from humidifier to furnace. hope this helps
That is an old style t-stat i would replace it with a more up to date model. Your problem may be in the limit switch. But yes to answer your question most fans can be adjusted just depends on if it has a manual limit that looks like a silver box on the interior of your furnace or if it has a mother board control system.
I just solved a problem with mine today. One of my low voltage power wires to the humidity control had a bad connection. I reconnected it and I could again hear the solenoid valve clicking as I adjusted the dial control.
I found the problem with a voltmeter: there was voltage at the power terminals on the humidity control terminal board, but there was no voltage at the solenoid valve terminals. It was hard to push my big wires into the terminal board, but I finally secured the connection!
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm
Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
I would guess from the info provided that you only have two wires going to your thermostat which would explain why the fan switch doesn't work on the thermostat. You can bypass the thermostat as a first step in troubleshooting. After that it depends on the type of furnace, standing pilot or electronic ignition...