I winterized my pool by blowing out the line, and blocking everything off so there was no water in the pipes (avoid freezing)
This spring, when getting everything into operation, I noticed that there was a lot of sand (very fine, and brown) at the bottom of the pool. I vacuumed, and noticed that during vacuuming sand was blowing out the jets. I've run a backwash, and most of the sand is out, but a little showed up again. I'm concerned that something may be wrong with my Hayward sand filter
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: There's sand in my pool!
I have had this issue with several clients and before worrying, you might have had sand being drawn back into pool lines during winterization. this happens when you blow out lines, plug holes, but keeping it pressurized. if it keeps happening check draw fins on bottom of filter.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Remove all drain plugs, open any valve you can and have. split apart any union, and depending on the part of the country you live in, the permafrost is a factor. If you freeze below ground, then you will also need to empty your pool down below the lowest inlet fitting and then blow the water out of the lines.
Once clear of excess water, plug the holes so rain water does not refill them!
heater will have 2-4 drain/winter plugs
also remove the pressure switch
pump will normally have 2 plugs
Open & remove lid from hair & lint pot
Pool sweep booster pump has 1 plug
Any low spots in the plumbing will trap water in them. Drill & tap a hole - 1/4" Normal pipe thread - that is the most common size of a winterizing drain plug. Others may just cut the pipe right at the lowest spot and glue in a union for future winterizing.
The Hayward Pro Series Sand Filter uses an O-Ring on the stand pipe to separate water returning to the pool, after being filtered, from water coming into the filter from the pool. If this O-Ring is broken, missing or sufficiently worn, small particles of dirt and sand can by-pass the sand filter and return to the pool without being properly filtered by the sand filter.
This can be especially evident just after backwash and rinsing of the sand filter bed. During this time water flows up through the sand bed, opposite the direction in normal operation. This forces the top-most material of the sand bed to dislodge and wash out of the filter to waste. It can also force fine particles to enter through a faulty O-Ring into the pool return stand pipe. Then, when returning the filter system to normal operating mode, those fine particles enter the pool through the water return piping and collect on the bottom of the pool -- mostly small sand particles but potentially filtered debris particles that were captured on top of the sand bed.
To avoid this problem it's wise to replace this O-Ring every few years. And make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the amount of sand to fill when replacing sand. It's important to keep the top of the sand bed at the correct level to insure proper filtering and minimize stray particles coming back into the return water.
I don't know how much time you are giving it, but sometimes when I start my pump, it'll take 20 minutes or so for it to start a full stream of water. Also, make sure the valves are turned to the unlock position on the incoming and outgoing hoses.
sand in your pool is a sign that you may have damage inside your sand filter. it is not uncommon for laterals to break during winter months. also, as the sand wears, it becomes smaller and may pass through.
remember that the filter sand is white. if you have sand in the pool that doesnt look like filter sand, you may have a problem with a broken line back to pool. keep an eye on your water level as you will lose water with this scenario
by Osko Pool n SpaInformation
By following the provided instructions, you will be able to professionally close your pool for the winter season. Additionally, you will protect it from winters abuse and make opening it next season...simple.
a) Standard Screw Driver
b) Phillips Screw Driver
c) Ratchet Set
e) Plumber Pliers
f) Sump Pump
g) Extension Cord
h) Garden Hose
i) Five Gallon Bucket
j) Air Pump or Shop Vac
k) Pool Vac & Accessories
a) Pool Shock
c) Chlorinating Tablets
a) Winter Cover
b) Pool Pillows or Inner-tubes
c) Chlorine Float Dispenser
d) Water Bags (for ingrounds only)
Step One - Debris & Chemicals
Remove any debris from pool water by use of a leaf rake attachment.
Add the appropriate amount of shock treatment to the pool water, as prescribed on the packaging.
Add the appropriate amount of algecide to the pool water, as prescribed on the packaging.
Run your filter for the appropriate time to circulate all water once.
(see your filter documentation for your size pool)
Install your floating Dispenser and winterizing tablets.
Step Two - Vacuum & Water Level
Vacuum your pool while setting your filter to the "back wash" or "waste" setting.
(this will help lower your water level)
After vacuuming, install the sump pump and drain pool to about 6 inches below your thru-the-wall skimmer.
Step Three - Parts Dissassembly & Cleaning
Disconnect all ladders, filter systems, hoses, solar reels and/or other accessories.
Using standard household cleansers, thoroughly clean all ladders, solar reels and/or other accessories.
Dissassemble filtration system.
Remove sand, cartridge or DE powder from your filtration tank.
Thoroughly clean all filter system parts.
Allow all items to dry.
Store all items in an area that will not be subject to freezing temperatures.
Step Four - Pillow & Cover Installation
Inflate all pool pillows or inner-tubes.
Install one pillow for every 15' of linear water surface.
(example: a 15' x 30' would require at least two pillows)
Tie pillows to pool area via nylon rope and place equally with respects to pool walls and each other.
(this is extremely important! This prevents freeze damage)
Install winter cover as prescribed by the covers manufacturer.
Step Five - Winter Tips
During the winter months, remove any excess snow from the winter cover.
(If you have a solid cover, this will prevent excessive weight form tearing you cover)
(If you have a mesh cover, this will prevent excessive water build up)
Hey, Your Finished! Congratulations, you just saved money while doing a professional job
Typically, the cracking of internal filter tank components is due to freezing temperatures over the Winter season. You should always COMPLETELY drain all water from your filter and store it inside during the winter.
Another reason is over chlorination of your pool water and/or adding chemicals directly to your water thru the wall skimmer.
this is taken right from a jewel series QCA hot tub manual.....Winterizing In very cold weather you may not want to venture outside to use your spa. In this case, you may move it to a heated area, or leave it as is until the weather warms. If you do leave the spa unused for a long period of time in severely cold weather, you should winterize the spa to avoid accidental freezing due to a power or equipment failure.. Follow these easy steps: Turn power to the spa OFF. Drain the spa. Use a wet vac to **** or blow out the air injectors, water jets and water suction fittings. Add 1-3 gallons of RV antifreeze, depending on the size of the spa, to all the air injectors, water jets, suction drains, and filter. Caution: Any lines not receiving adequate antifreeze are subject to freeze damage!
Probably, all you did was to turn-off the tap inside the basement, so that no water would be inside the pipe during the winter, and so there would be chance of water freezing inside the pipes, causing expansion, and creating a leak in the pipe. Turn the water on inside the basement. The toilet-tank should start to refill, immediately. If it does not, there may be another tap right beside the toiler. Turn that tap, too.
There should be a drain at the bottom of your filter. There are really two drains in one ... one part lets the water out the second part (same hole) lets the sand out. Becareful not to remove the sand strainer.
Use a shop vac to blow and/or **** the lines out. Might be wise to lower the water below the suction and discharge lines (bottom drain excluded)
dont forget to pull the two (probably) on your pumps, one in the basket and one in the pump chamber.
alternatively, visit your manufacturer web site for specific instructions.
I dont think you will go too far wrong following my comment but Im not coming to fix any freeze damage :-)