In the freezer of my side by side iremoved the back panel to find top of coil frozen and nothing on bottom of coil every thing gets cold but compressor runs almost constant unplugged it later restarted it and right away could see frost start to form on top but not on bottom whats wrong
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Re: coil in freezer ice on top not on bottom
Soundslike a "low charge" or inefficient compressor. defimalty a "sealed system repair" needed, nothing for a homeowner, and depending on age may not be worth costof repair, check your owners manual, you should have at least a 5yr warr.
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There is an ice blockage between the freezer and the refrigerator. Cold air passes from the freezer into the refrigerator in the back behind the plastic housing with the temperature controls. Empty your freezer and remove the bottom panel. You will see that everything is frozen. Carefully remove this ice until you can clear the passage to the refrigerator. It may be helpful to remove the temperature control housing in the refrigerator as well to see when the ice is cleared.
The defrost drain hole in the bottom of the freezer has frozen over. Turn off the fridge. Remove the shelves and bins. Remove the rear panel of the freezer. You will see ice on the bottom rear of the freezer. Use a hair dryer to melt the ice,especially in the drain hole once you get through the surface ice. Once the drain hole is clear,pour a cup of hot water through the drain hole followed by 1/4 cup bleach. Re-install your parts and turn the fridge back on.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp ..
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
How to check
Check to see if you have frost on the back panel of your freezer in your fridge. If you do your coil is frozen over and you'll have to defrost your freezer. I just did mine cause mine wasn't cooling properly on my fridge side. My coil was solid ice.
The problem you are experiencing is normally a blocked evaporator drain line. Whether you have a side by side model or a top mount freezer the solution is relatively the same. Most top mount freezer models have a rear evaporator panel covering the aluminum evaporator coils. There are some instances where the evaporator coils are on the floor. These instructions are for top mount freezers where the rear freezer panel covers the evaporator coils. First of all, if there is an ice maker in your unit, this will have to be removed. Normally there are two screws which can be loosened and the body of the ice maker can be lifted off the screws leaving only a plug in harness to disconnect. Remove the harness either from the plug at the left wall or rear of the freezer and set it to the side. Next, remove all the screws securing the rear panel. Remove the rear panel exposing the aluminum evaporator coils. Be careful not to damage these coils as they contain the freon that cools your refrigerator. If you look closely underneath these coils, there will be ice from frozen defrosted water. Using a hair dryer and not a heat gun, melt all the ice and sop up the water with a towel. Now you will see a drain hole which is normally still blocked with ice. Pour hot water in this hole and sop it up. Keep doing this until you pour water down the hole and it drains into the evaporator drain pan either under or behind your refrigerator. Once you have unblocked this drain line, reassemble and plug the refrigerator back in. Set all controls to the middle settings and within 24 hours, your unit will be functioning correctly once again. If you need further assistance, we are here. Eric Campion
frozen coils not always means freon problem. low air flow across evaporator coils could cause freeze up. if door is opened and closed an abnormal amount could cause a freeze up or even something pushed up against the air intake in the refridgerator. i would thaw it out completely and restart it, theres a chance it was nothing major. good luck
good then go ahead and ohm out the sensor and the relays to see if the resistance is close to the normat. 70 degrees is roughly 1000 ohms. relay you are lookling for continuity or open. then you can also ohm the fan motor too. let me know what you find;.that will determin whts bad and whats good
I had the same problem with a whirlpool refrigerator with freezer on top. TURN OFF & UN-PLUG IT. To access the freezer drain you must pull the refrig out from the wall and take off the bottom-back panel, it uses some (7) small nut headed screws. The drain is the white tube on the left going into the drain pan. You can push a long wire or plastic hose up the tube, however that will probably only hit something solid (ice) and blowing air may not clear it, until you let the freezer completely thaw out, which may take several days. The following may help experienced do-it-yourself nuts, it is not for the faint of heart! I took out all the freezer items and placed them in coolers to keep them frozen. Then removed the back panel in the freezer, two nut headed screws at the top center. The bottom of this panel was frozen to the bottom of the freezer compartment, so I used a hair-dryer to thaw it enough to loosen it. (Be careful: water and electricity do not mix well!) The left side of this panel has some electrical control wires attached, so the left side will not come out, just rotate the panel and lean it against the left side of the compartment. Now use the hair dryer (or pour hot water on it) to melt the ice along the bottom back of the compartment under the freezer coils. BE CAREFUL: The fins are sharp and will cut! Do not bend them. If they are all frozen up your heating element-defroster may be out. If there is only ice along the bottom, the hair-dryer or hot-water will help melt it to the point it can be removed. If the drain hole at the back-bottom-center-right is plugged with ice, poor hot water on it to speed up its melting. The hair drier will not do this very fast and you cannot chip it out without damaging the plug hole. Mine was solid ice about 2 inches into the tube and hot water finally thawed it. Then pour water through the hole to flush it out. Clean the bottom drain pan & re-assemble. Good luck.
A bad freezer door seal causes condensation that freezes at the bottom of the unit. I realize you said the drip pan was full of ice, but if the drain is clogged, that will happen. If that unit has the pan at the very bottom, condensation can also contribute to this.
i need the complete model number to narrow it down they still make the frs20zrg to this day the last two numbers like frs20zrgwo or frs20zrgw9 is what will tell me what kind of defrost system it has the serial plate is in the fridge side up by the light bulb or on the left hand side or right hand side of the fridge compartment up near the top sorry to be a bother but its necessary