Drove fine in am, wouldn't start at lunch. All new from distrubuter to plugs, good spark. Fuel pressure reading 0, swapped fuel pump relay in fuse box with horn relay (same part number) horn still works. read about a fuel pump test wire under hood on the drivers side that could be jumped to battery to test fuel pump driver side but can't find it. similar models report relay being behind glove box but i don't see it there either. any more spcifics on this elusive test wire for this specific model? 99 chevy S10 ext. cab 4.3 L v-6? Any other easy ways to test fuel pump. also no codes showing on code reader. Read that oil pressure relay would take over pump relay with extended cranking, also did not work. truck will start breifly with starting fluid. No fuel pump can be heard with ignition being turned on (usually hear a 5-7 sec whine) all i hear now is a brief turning or valve sound similar to an automatic air freshener in a public resteroom. (2 brief spray sounds) but again no fuel pressure registers. That's about all the info I can give. please help!
This happened on mine and at first i had 4v at the harness going into the tank then it eventually went to 0v im prettysure thats why the pump burnt up but anyway after much head scrtaching i tied into the ground wire coming out of the tank and grounded it to the frame and the truck is running fine there vehicles are known for bad wire looms
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there are 2 parts of a UPS . the charge side and (battery is obvious) the inverter side. if the charger fails, all is lost. (are the batteries in backwards?) if the charger works (volt meter tells you that) then the inverter is bad. (this unit is not full time UPS , but part time, this means it switches over to inverter at power fail. (on full time sys. inverter runs full time, like the name states) the unit, you mean the load right.? the UPS side plugged into a load. and the load is now dead.
the Backup plugs should work if the mains are hot. if you kill mains, the inverter will fire off, (hear the squeal?) and give you 500 watts for some minutes, sucking the batteries dry. (see load run time curves) I used to do service on HUGE UPS systems, some with 100s of batteries. 3 to 5kw too. on ours there is a port on the rear , we connect and can check everything "BEST brand" even charge voltage. did you look on APC site for special software and connections?
the manual does cover trouble shooting, ever read that? RTM? start there, its online, for sure.
If it's more than 3 years old, you probably need new batteries.
If the beep started after plugging anything additional into the UPS, you may be in an overload state, and the beep is telling you that it's choosing to beep and not function as intended rather than smoking itself. Try unplugging a piece or two from it and see if the beep goes away. If not, probably just you're batteries giving out due to old age, they'll only give you 3-5 years.
I would not recommend installing larger batteries to the device because the units charging circuit is design to charge a certain size batteries current rating. And the Software that?s build into the unit is calculated for the amount of current the original batteries were designed for. If you install a higher capacity (current) batteries you could damage the unit. The true amount of current left will not be true. Analogy would be like putting a bigger gas tank in your car. But leaving the same fuel gauge system in the new tank. Now the car?s fuel gauge will not provide you with the correct amount of fuel that?s really in the car's tank. Basically the same thing could happen to your UPS box.
>> I'm having the same problem with mine. I get 122 volts when plugged
into the wall, and it tells me that I get less than 1 min of use once I
unplug, and it actually lasts for 10 seconds before getting a
The screeching sound is normal. Its telling you "HEY, I HAVE NO POWER. THIS IS A PROBLEM." and trying to attract as much attention as possible. It will also do that if you run a self test with the software and the test fails.
Its been a while since I worked on these during an outage, but I believe there is a way to use the software (PowerChute business edition, if you're using a SmartUPS. There is a personal version with less features for other home models) to silence the alarm. I think some of them had a button you could push on the unit to silence it as well, but look this up first. Push the wrong one and it powers everything down.
Does the engine keep running once you start it with gas or starter fluid, or does it stumble for a bit and then die again?
It definitely sounds like there's no fuel getting through. Try disconnecting the fuel line with the engine off and routing it to a container, then try starting the car and see if any fuel is flowing.
If it is, there is likely a wiring problem to the injectors, which could indicate the injector fuse is blown. You could try jumpering the positive wire from the injectors directly to the battery and try to start the engine (obviously with the fuel line hooked back up!)- the negative is switched by the engine computer.
If there is no fuel flow at all, then check the fuel pump fuse. Again, you can try jumpering a wire from the battery to the positive fuel pump terminal and see if that starts the engine.
If there is very little fuel flow, it is likely a restriction in the lines or a defective pump. I would check the fuel filter, and perhaps blow out the fuel lines with compressed air. If that doesn't help, or if there isn't any restriction, then it comes down to a bad pump.
Above is the link to your manual and troubleshooting guide. After that your on your own. These small units like this are throw away units if the battery replacement does not work. Thier cost is so low most times it is better to buy a new unit rather than new batteries.