Question about Electrolux Dryers

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The heating coil went out. I replaced it and the connector was apparently broke which in turn damaged the new coil. I replaced the new on, again, and this time I checked everything before running. It is not heating up so I checked the electric protectors and replaced the one that is the size of a dime. Still no heat. HELP

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  • Master
  • 3,422 Answers

Hi,

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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  • Master
  • 13,433 Answers

The problem may lie in the device that controlls the heating element.

Do you have the right part? do the part numbers match?

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • Ekse Mar 01, 2009





    Thermal fuse

    On
    many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside
    the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually
    embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the
    fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)




    Wiring

    A
    common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the
    dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
    tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
    defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and
    the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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The coil on my 125 cc pit bike broke every time that I started the bike, I run the bike for a little while then go off killin the coil, I have tested two coil and both broke


Hi, Jose and the usual suspects are:
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IGNITION FAILURE ON 280 ZX (82)


  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with the following system checks.
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  2. If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
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    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
0900c152800716f1.jpgFig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models 0900c152800716f3.jpgFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
  1. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
    1. Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
    2. Turn the ignition ON.
    3. Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
    4. Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
    1. If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
  1. If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
    1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
    2. Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
    3. Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
    4. Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
    5. Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
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1 Answer

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Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

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Hey Brian, please don't loose your calm! You CAN fix it!.

Look for a timing belt with a skipped tooth.
Another possibility is that your sparkplugs are not properly gapped or their internal resistor got damaged. (A too large gap will make spark too hard to jump, which ended burning the hole you saw. A too large gap is very difficult to jump and places a tremendous effort on the coil and plug cables. Some times resistor type sparkplugs get the resistor damaged or open, at first, the open circuit can be jumped (inside the damaged plug body) easily, but as gap grows, it will cause an excessive voltaje to damage the coil or wires.


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