The problem happened after an indoor flap to the outside was installed backwards, preventing the air to vent out.
One cycle was done like this. After cycle was done, clothes were still very wet. I fixed the flap so that it lets the air vent outside properly.
We then started the dryer once again and the dryer ran for about 10 minutes and then stopped on its own.
Now, when we turn it on, the heating element heats up, but nothing else seems to be working. The temperatur is set to Regular for the above. I've tried on the temperatur setting for Air Fluff and Low setting, and same result, except for Air Fluff, I don't hear a click that I hear for the Regular setting.
Also, when element heats up, a distinct burning smell can be detected (the kind of smell when an electric heater has not been turned on for a long time and dust has accumulated on the elements).
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Re: Crosley CDE6500AZW heating, but drum not rolling
OK Here is what I think happened. I have heard of this before. You melted a wheel and that broke the belt. This is a simple dryer to repair and parts are not that much. Well worth fixing. Start by popping the top remove the front then get the drum out and inspect the damage.
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Water in the drum anytime after drying a load of clothes is not normal.
Was the load prior to you having found the condensation fully dried? If not, check for lint in the vent system and make sure that air is coming out of the vent (the flap or louvers on the vent cap should open fully on a short vent line). Even so, this would not account for a small amount of standing water in the drum.
The first thing that came to mind was outside air being drawn in through the vent. If you have air conditioning and a well-sealed house, the warm, moist air hitting the cool drum (in a relatively dry atmosphere) may cause condensation. Check the outside vent to ensure that the vent cap flap (or louvers) is (are) closing all the way. Convection or air flow from the basement to a vent fan in an upper level might cause this.
dryer vent hose is pluged or pinched against wall remove from back of drier and check hose also check outside vent it should have a flap make sure flap opens also make sure there is not a screen in outside vent sometimes roofers get them mixed up with bathvents
normally condensation on the inside of a dryer is due to a pinched or plugged vent hose i have had this happen also when the dryer vent is very short and goes outside where the temperater outside is cold and moisture will condense on inside of dryer
if you live in a colder location there is a vent system
that you can install that will allow you to keep heat inside not reccomended for gas dryer the vent cap on the outside could also be missing the flap that stop air from going back into dryer hope one of these suggestions i a solution to your problem
Occaisionally this is due to either dryer being set to a 'delicate' or 'low' setting. Most frequently it's due to an obstruction in airflow so the heating coil is cycling off to prevent overheating. The vent at the back of your dryer should be cleaned out (by sucking out the lint with a vacumn hose) at least once a year. The vent pipe out of your house as well. Make sure that the flap on the outside of your house is opening and allowing free air circulation when the dryer is on. And make sure you clean your lint trap every time you use the dryer.
If you run the dryer with the front off, the air is sucked in the open front and out the vent. The combustion air (and heat) is not drawn away from the burner, which causes the burner to short cycle. You may also have this same condition with the front on if you have a poor vent. Don't use any flexible venting. Use rigid aluminum pipe and adjustable elbows if needed. Clean the vent out and make sure the outside vent is clean and air flows out the vent with a strong flow. The outside vent should be a 4 inch vent, not a 2 inch vent flap. That normally will solve your problem. Rarely, a gas valve may cause these symptoms, but make sure the vent is good first.
Your vent flap could be taped or it could be faulty installation not allowing the vent to open. If you take the front vent cover off, you should be able to reach in above the fan unit and gently push the vent flap up, it should move freely with no binding. If it doesn't it is taped or blocked. If it is taped, gently putting upward pressure on the flap might release the tape. If that doesn't work the vent installation is blocking the flap. You might have to remove the unit from the wall (two people to do this) or disassemble the vent duct above the microwave and rework the interface for clearance.
Sounds like your damper (flap) outside is working, and that's probably the first thing to check.
Wind may be also pulling the damper open from time to time.
Hopefully the pipe fitting is sealed, and the pipe is insulated anywhere it runs through any unheated portion of the house.
Some amount of cold air getting in will be unavoidable.
The best bet next might be to look over the two pages in the installation instructions that deal with outside venting.
If you don't have the installation instructions, you can get a copy here: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/
Then if you don't notice any obvious problems with the installation, it may be time to contact the installer for their two cents.