If the above doesn't work (not a belt/motor/transmission problem), it may be something similar to what happened to mine. Google something to the effect of "how to remove front panel of xxxxxxx washing machine". You will either need a new clutch clip or re-bend the old.
Tip up the washer from the front and belt is accessible.If you need to get to the motor, insert a putty knife about 2 inches from either side of the top front seam while pulling up on the lid. The top will flip open, the there are 2 small sheet metal screws ( 1 on each side) near the top of the front panel to remove. Then lift up and pull out the front panel.
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Always worth while adjusting the 'balance'!
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice. Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other. Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
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The motor Carriage is not pulling back fast/far enough special poly lube you can use other lube just wont last long or will deteriorate wheels quickly. What you can do is set for spin, hold open lid slightly with one hand pull back on motor slightly. If sound stops you got it. Other wise sounds like mount stem may need replacing if you do also replace spin bearing this is under basket and outer tub on top of transmission.
The rear half of the outer wash drum (which contains the rear bearing and tub shaft seal) needs to be replaced. On a 1 - 10 scale, this rates a difficulty rating of about an 8. An experienced appliance tech can do it in about 2 hours, and hit you up for about $500. I do not suggest this as a do it yourself repair. Did you know that the new LG machines use a balance ring to make them much smoother running? (Hint: It may be wiser to replace the machine.)
You can find a service provider, to do the repair or just get parts here: http://www.lg.com/us/support/repair/support-repair-provider-lookup.jsp
The problem you described suggests that the spin bearing or basket drive
may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely
inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound
during the spin cycle, as said by you. This would require to call a qualified appliance repair
Check this and
do get back to us for any further assistance.
hello, your problem is that your shocks are bad and need to be replaced. you can access them by removing the front lower panel. make sure you unplug the washer first. you will see 2 of them on either side of the tub. i belive you can twist the upper portion and then remove the bottom screew and remove the shock. of course before you start you should have the new shocks. and make sure their is no water in the tub.