Question about Premier Watts Two-Chamber Tankless Electric Hot Water Heater #500514

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No water at all coming from the hot water (electric) tank? we drained tank in case there was an air leak already. If we wait awhile it will run again for a bit then stop --no reason to it. Help please with suggestions?

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  • kamac9 Mar 02, 2009

    HI -- thanks for the answer but I don't think that applies to this problem. When this happens there is NO water at all that comes out.....it just stops altogether. If we shut off all taps it will eventually be alright when we turn on tap or shower again. A real bummer in the middle of a shower. ... when the water does come it is always hot so no problem there. A real puzzle??

  • kamac9 Mar 03, 2009

    HI-- problem solved. Had plumber come --2 problems--faulty tank and a washer causing on again off again blockage. Thanks for the suggestions though. Appreciate it.

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If it is at least a 30 gallon tank it has two thermostats  One behind each door. They are ajustable and you should  be able to cycle then on and off with a small screwdriver. Went finished,if they both worked set them on the same value. With a volt meter,if test lamp,see that you have rated  voltage coming into the tank.   Turn off the electricity, Disconnect the wires for the heater eliments (one behing and usually placed under the theromostates and  the with a battery type test light, if you have not an ohm meter .  Check across each one. Light should light dimly. Brightly means that the eliment is shorted . No light indicates that the eliment is open. No or bright either one replace the eliment. That is about all their is too it . Fairly simple design.

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • Thomas F. Schneider Mar 02, 2009

    I am sorry. I saw the two chamber tankless but then saw somethng about the tank being drained and ..... You are right , It doesn't apply. I have never worked on a two chamber typelike you have although I have worke on several tankless type. most have a  flow/volume restrictor, usually made of rubber inside the inlet where the cold water goes in. I am guessing that you have a blockage with something going against the flow control.  would start by disconnecting the line leading into the water heater and if possible back flushing it .
      Sorry about the tank type answer, yesterday.

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Why does the water suddenly runs COLD after many minutes of running hot?


Unless you are using a tankless hot water heater, there is a limited amount of hot water available in the tank. Electric and gas water tanks need time to recover after use, and if you are using heavily, it can exhaust the available supply. That said, there are a couple reasons why you may have less hot water than seems normal. In both electric and gas water heaters, silt can form in the bottom of the tank. This will build up over time and displace water. It also reduces the heating efficiency of gas units. There is a drain valve on the bottom of water heater tanks to allow for purging of this silt periodically, but few ever do it. You could also have, in the case of an electric hot water heater, a bad element or thermostat. Most electric heaters have an upper and lower element and thermostat. If one fails the other will still work, but the water takes longer to get hot and will deplete faster.

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Water meter keeps running. When I turn off the water supply to the hot water tank the needle on the water meter stops, does that mean that I have a leak in the hot water pipe coming out of tge tank.


Yes you have a leak on hot pipe or TP overflow tube.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#listen
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Hi Bob,

You can determine if the tank is the problem by connecting a garden hose to the drain that is provided on most water heaters. Before doing this, be sure to shut of the electrical supply to the heater - otherwise you can damage heating elements if an electric type or waste fuel by heating an empty tank if a gas / propane fired type.

If you get a slow flow out of this drain, it means that somewhere in the cold water supply side to / in the tank - there is a problem. Inside the tank, the cold water is delivered by a "dip tube" that distributes the cold water to the bottom in the tank. Dip tubes are used in both electric and gas / propane fueled heaters. Here's a cut away view of a typical tank:



6_29_2012_9_57_32_pm.jpg

If the tube is clogged, or there is build up, scale or debris in the supply (cold water) side of the heater, flow rates will suffer. Likewise, if there is a problem with the output of the tank, it will directly affect flow as well.

If you get a good flow rate from the drain, then the issue is going to be on the hot water output side of the heater. Again, the same build up, scale, debris issues on the hot water out put pipe will cause problems with flow. Typcial tanks do not have dip tubes for the hot water side of the tank - as taking hot water from the top of the tank is most desireable and is furthest away from the cold water that rushes in to make up the hot hot water going out.

There's nothing really in the tank itself that can cause issues with flow outside of the dip tube, and piping to and from the tank.

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I have a hot water heater that when running seems to build up an excessive amt of pressure. We just replaced the pressure valve because the old one started leaking when the hot water was running for any...


The most likely problem is that the thermostats are set too high. Remove the thermostat cover plates and look to see where the thermostats are set. The range should be between 120F and 135F. Liquids expand with heat so the higher the temp, the high the pressure. Decrease the setting on the thermostat until the leak stops.

The other likely cause is a head of air trapped in the top of the tank. After drawing hot water, it wiill be displaced by the incoming cold makeup water. This will compress any air in the top of the tank. As the water heats, the air will heat and pressure will build - possibly causing the leak. You can purge the tank of air by opening the pressure relief valve until water comes out (which I assume that you have already tried).

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1 Answer

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Begin by turning off the gas at the tank and at the valve near the tank. CAUTION: Do not proceed any further if you do not know how to relight the gas pilot!
2) Turn off the COLD water supply to the tank.
3) Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Run the hose to a convenient drain location. Be careful if you use a real cheapy garden hose... some of these become very soft when hot water runs through them, and may leak! If you don't have a drain in the basement floor or suitable sump hole, you have my sympathies... this drain-down can take a while with a bucket! Oh... and be careful if you use a soft plastic bucket. It can also soften from the heated water so don't overfill it or burn yourself!
4) Open up the hot water side of any faucet. Open up the drain valve on the tank and allow it to empty. Miller time. That is, unless you don't have a sump...
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5) When the tank is empty, shut off the drain valve and turn on the cold water. This will loosen up more sediment in the tank through the churning action of the cold water in the tank. Let the tank fill partially and drain it again. In fact, if you find that the sediment starts to clog the drain valve, turn on the cold water supply to the tank, which will help loosen the sediment and blast it out.
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How frequently to clean the sediment from your tank...
This depends on the source and purity of your water supply. Some pros recommend doing it annually, some every few years. I would recommend doing a partial drain down annually if you find any sediment in the tank, otherwise every couple of years.
Remember that with an electric water heater, you must turn the power off! Even a partial drain down may expose the upper heating element to the air and permanently damage it!

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