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I have had to strip my 950 breaker down as the motor was working but nothing else,the roller bearing has broke up on the con rod,the bolt which goes through this and its bush has hardly any thread left does anybody know the best place to purchase these from .many thanks G

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  • David Ford
    David Ford May 11, 2010

    What is the brand and exact model number

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Unfortunately these machines are not produced any more. No more spare parts are made for them either. Unless you can find anyone with parts on the shelf, which is unlikely now, I would suggest replacing the machines. In U.K. the company that supplies Kango/Milwaukee/Atlas Copco/AEG machines is called A&M Tools.
You can get some diagrams from the Milwaukee site
On teh red header, click parts and service, then in the main reading pane click parts lists.
http://www.milwaukeetool.co.uk/int/uk/uk_site.nsf/frmIndex?ReadForm

Posted on Dec 03, 2009

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I just put new rod bearings in,is there supposed to be a little play or are they supposed to be snug?


new con rod bearings snug no slop

clearance needed ...is the thou /mm given in the motors specs
with the two nuts torqued to spec

Oct 24, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What are torque settings for the main bearing bolts and con rods on a ford/Mazda w e series 16 valve turbo diesel motor?


main bearings will be about 70lbs and the con rods about 40lbs ,my manual is in the garage not at home sorry

Oct 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Main /con rod torque


Here are the torque specs you requested:
MAIN BRG CAPS= 29FT/LBS THEN TIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES in sequence(two step process)
ROD BEARING CAPS= 18 FT/LBS
CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS= 29FT/LBS + 90 degrees + another 90 degrees in sequence from the center out ward, (3 step process).
Please let me know if you have any questions

Aug 22, 2015 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi.Good morning! please till me what is the specific torque of isuzu 4ba1 con rod cap bolts,main bearing cap bolts and cylinder head bolts?


go on line and type in torque specifications for isuzu 4b1a engine
there may be a pdf version that you can down load

Jul 25, 2015 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Torque specs head bolt and con rod bearing for


Torque goes by size Should be 20-30-lbs. Doyou have any plati-gauge? Don`t know the bolt size or i could tell you.

Aug 31, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is the torque for the main and rod bearings on a 2005 dodge stratus 2.7L automatic v6?


Main bearing cap bolts there is a outer cap bolt that are torqued to 20 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. Then there a inner cap bolt that are torqued to 15 ft lbs + 1/4 turn. Con rod bolts are torqued 20 ft lbs +1/4 turn

Jul 06, 2014 | 2006 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

How to remove crankshaft for campbell hausfeld compressor


I assume you have removed the valve head-valve plate-cylinder assembly from the base and pistons. Remove the four bolts holding the bearing cap assembly on one side of the crankcase and remove the cap. You have to pull on the crank to get the crank bearing out of the opposite side of the crankcase. Move the crank forward and turn it until the rear bearing will clear the crankcase and the whole thing will tilt and come out the top. Campbell sells the entire crank, con rods, pistons & rings as an assembly under part number VT040600AJ. This is the best way to go as they don't have con rods to go on the crank if you were to get the journals turned down. NOTE: During reassembly, the bottoms of the cylinders have a taper so you don't need a ring compressor to get the pistons in the cylinders. Just be sure the oil rings are in properly before pushing the cylinder all the way down. The thin oil scrapper rings have a tendency to fold over and get caught between the piston and cylinder.

Jan 29, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

What happens if your rods get missed up trying to start it up


the rods should not get messed up unless there is a problem with either the rod bolts or rod bearings but if there bent or broke or chiped they need to be replaced your talking about a major repair that requires removing the motor and at that point its better to replace the motor or rebuild it.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Complete torque specs. for entire engine. rods, mains, heads. etc.


Assuming 3.0 V6, per my manual:

All in FT pounds torque,unless noted:

Main bearings: 60
Connecting rod bearing cap nuts: 34
Rocker arm shaft bolts 180 INCH POUNDS
Intake manifold: 168 INCH POUNDS
Exhaust manifold nuts: 18
Crankshaft vibration dampner bolt: 112
Cam shaft sprocket bolts: 70
Head bolts: 76 - 83
If you need others please let me know, when working with Aluminum parts go easy as they can strip easy.
Please let me know if this helped,
Tom

Apr 30, 2010 | 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

Jeep cherokee with a 4.0 6 cyl when a start the motor cold it sounds like a diesel engine, lots of clanking. last a couple of seconds then goes away. replaced oil pump. no help there.


Lots of clanking when first started sounds like a worn rod bearing. Check the engine compartment and rev engine to listen for knocking. It will get progressively worse as time goes by. Nothing to do except buy/install new crankshaft kit from autozone, about $300+.

In the mean time, just change oil and put in some oil additive to lessen the knocking. High speeds will accelerate the wear of the rod bearing. The rod bearing is installed inside of the piston rod. This bearing goes around the crankshaft. It has very tight tolerances down to the thousands of an inch. When it gets worn, metal will flake off of the soft bearing material and contaminate your oil more. If you catch it early enough, you can replace the bearing without too much trouble. Here is what you need to do.

Find the bad bearing. If you hear the knocking with the engine on and under the hood, disconnect a sparkplug. If the knocking goes away, that is the bad bearing. Do this disconnecting/reconnecting until you identify the bad bearings. Now disconnect battery. Next loosen drive belt- done from steering pump. Loosen 2-13mm bolts on back, one on top and one on bracket on bottom. On bottom right-hand side of pump will be a long adjusting bolt. Loosen turn this bolt counter clockwise to loosen drive belt. Now jack vehicle from the frame, vehicle will raise but tires will remain on ground. keep going as high as your jack will go. Install jack stands on frame. This extends your suspension and keep body raised. Drain oil, remove steering damper. It's the shock absorber looking thing connected to your tie rods/center link. The easiest way to remove the oil pan is to get a 3/8 inch socket adapter for a cordless drill. The bolts will come out in a hurry if you do this. Keep track of where the double sided bolts are, they secure the fuel line brackets. After all are removed, wiggle, tug, and pull pan out. Now you will see the large main caps and the rod caps. The mains are bolted to the block and the rods will rotate up and down with the spinning of the crankshaft. Spin the crankshaft to see. Each bearing cap needs to be marked. Use a center punch and hammer to mark from front to rear. 1 mark for rod cap 1 and so forth. You should end up with 6 marks on rod cap #6. Do the marking on the front side of the cap so you know how it fits back. Remove the rod caps that corresponded to the bad bearing identified earlier. Remove nut on cap. Wiggle cap back and forth until it comes loose. It will eventually come out. Inside the cap, you will see the bearing. It is basically a liner for the cap that rides on the crankshaft. there is one on the top of the rod too. Remove it by pushing rod up into cylinder and pulling it out with your hand. Ensure you remember the orientation of the bearings. One side has a notch, the other has a key that fits into a hole on the rod. Now you have the bearing in hand, check for scoring, or wearing on the face. Check the web for a nice color picture. Feel the crankshaft bearing area with your finger nail. It should be smooth and not ridged. Purchase some plastigage along with a standard .000 bearing. Clean rod surface, install new bearing and plastigage. Tighten to torque. Remove cap and measure plastigage for your oil clearance. Now you can purchase the correct bearing to match your oil clearance. If you don't have a repair manual, now's a good time to get it. It has bearing tolerances for you to get the correct bearing. After you have the correct bearings, use oil additive to grease up the new bearing/crank surfaces. Put everything back together, put some quality magnets inside of your oil pan near the drain hole and cross your fingers.

Nov 20, 2008 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

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