Question about GE GTS22KCM Top Freezer Refrigerator
I woke up the other day to a warm refrigerator/freezer. Upon initial inspection I found an obviously filthy set of condenser coils. After cleaning them off and reassembling the back panel, I plugged the unit in and awaited the response. Condenser fan running, evaporator fan running, but no compressor. I then took the back panel back off and checked for power at the compressor- NOTHING. I then located the circuit board and obviously had power coming into the board (fans were running) Without a schematic of the board/unit it is tough for me to figure out what is going on with the compressor. It does have an overload, which may have opened since the coils were blanketed with dust and pet hair. May the overload have burnt itself out? Or did something burn on the compressor section of the board? Or am I missing something else in my self-diagnostic checks? Any help, suggestions or wiring schematics out there that I can use would be greatly appreciated.
I have no idea what your refrigerator really is...
as I attempt to research I get longer
model numbers... (USA)
Were I you... and ready to put it (frig) out of my misery..
I'd first at least try to look at the compressor...!!
Is it getting AC...??
(really nice No contact volt tester on Amazon)
Should I try to ...
Open the AC (??)
(so as not to smoke the defrost/compressor control board)
and apply AC directly to PROVE/DISPROVE
your OWN hypothesis.
I would (and have the scars (experience) to
My big piece of advice:
Take notes & pictures of what wires go WHERE...!!
Klein Tools NCVT 3 Non Contact Voltage Tester with Flashlight Amazon com
Carnac the Magnificent
Posted on Mar 09, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fan can rotates freely even if there's no power to it(fan probably burn out).You can check if power is going to the fan motor by folowing the two wires fron the motor picking up power from the compresor connections under a black plastic cover on the side of the compresor.If you nave power going to the fan its needs to be replaced.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
I believe that because defrost is done by the mother control board this is why this is happening the part of the board that controls defrost is malfunctioning and the only way to resolve the problem is to replace the mother board part number WR55X10656 You can find the replacement board at these places below. Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Testimonial: "You were right, thanks for your help. The control board was bad. That is what I suspected, but I wanted a second opinion."
SOURCE: Refrigerator does not cool.
Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
SOURCE: We have a GE Profile
The evaporator and fan are behind the rear panel inside the freezer usually held in by a few screws up the sides.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle. If there is just partial icing or none on the coils, the system is low on freon and requires a tech to service.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is locatedon the back in. Part 801 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-PFS22MISBWW/0432/0161000/G7090615/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
Posted on Dec 03, 2010
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