Put wire clamp back on rubber seal

If seal/boot is not torn, then remove front spring/wire clamp, reposition the seal/boot, reinstall the spring/wire clamp. Check out repair videos at appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com.

that wire is a steel clamp to hold the rubber onto the tub an front . you'll have to remove the front to put it back on . a real project.
see this video at time 2:04 for that wire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehwsMILlaTY

You can certainly diy. Unplug the washer. With the door open, look at the bottom of the seal. You'll see a ring clamp. Loosen the screw and remove the clamp. Peel the seal inward. It is easier to complete the seal swap with the front off. Remove the door and set aside. Locate the screws for the front of the machine and remove them, gaining access to the seal. Youcan either set the door to the side with the door lock wires still attached, or unclip them, which is easier. With the seal folded inward, you will likely find another clamp at the bottom. Loosen this as well. Remove the seal and replace with the new one, making sure to orient it like the old one was, and fold it to the inside like you had the old one for removal. Replace the front panel. Complete the seal installation, being careful to make sure that the clamp removed earlier gets put back in the groove and seats well. Reinstall the door. Best Regards, --WoobieDog--

You need a grip clip plier to handle this clip, enquire at a hardware tool shop, with problem. The clamp is tough, you dont want leaks.

its a matter of removing the front retaining wire and the inner one which holds it onto the drum, an easy enough job to get off, sometimes a pain to get the inner off and on depending whether it s the screw or clamp type , screw=easy. to get the clamp off use a screwdriver to wiggle the bent wire out of the ratchet grooves. to put back is done with long nose pliers, preferably bent nose ones.

I would suggest using a blunt object to clear the drainage holes in the rubber seal. I'd advise against removing the seal for this problem. LG has special pliers to remove the spring loaded wire from around the front of the door seal and another for the larger size one where the rubber seal attaches to the outer drum. The second one is much harder to reattach, even somewhat difficult with the washer's front off if you do not have the special pliers.

Not a hard task if you coat rims with liquid detergent before trying to install new seal.
Using thumb go slowly around rim working seal all the way back.
Replacing main spring can be done by working bottom to top and then hold left side of spring in place while you pull right side in with long nose pliers.A couple of minutes difficult work and your 90% done.
Care is required so as not to puncture seal,
Main point is to ensure seal is fully seated before applying spring.
Having machine laid on its back makes the job so much easier.

This job took an hour and 30 minutes, the hour spent checking the internet first.
Good luck
Kevin

Here ya go. These are the complete steps involved i how to replace the door bellow. Just follow these instructions:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you and let me know if you need further assistance.

when you open the door you find a this wire clamp round the edge of the door seal, this just comes off with little force, this has to go back on obviously so don't bend it, the door seal just folds back on itself, the clamp on the drum end is often a large thin spring, and that also just pulls off, the seal then also comes away with a little pull, the new seal is fitted with the groove either side of the drum lip, then the spring is put back, take note how all is removed before working on it? the front of the seal is fitted then the wire, close the door to check a tight but easy fit, check for any leaks and correct fitting before leaving machine unattended any time, sound worse that what it actually is, if i have helped rate me,