I have a Ryobi Scroll Saw that has been used very littlie.It is a few years old but has only been used 2 or 3 times.When I turn it on the saw runs at maximum speed for about a second and then stops no mater where the speed control knob is set. Does anyone have any trouble shooing data for the electronic speed control ?
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We have a ryobi rj150v model reciprocating saw (older model) which needs the ... How do I remove the rubber boot which covers the front of the Rigid R3002 ...
Feb 18, 2013 - How do I remove the rubber boot which covers the front of the Rigid R3002 recip. saw? - Ryobi Ridgid R3002 Fuego Orbital question. ... We have a ryobi rj150v model reciprocating saw · Ryobi Reciprocating Saws · 1 Answer ...
A Ryobi might not have that nut. They are likley a ring gear drive which is different. I'd open it up and look at the gears. Make sure no teeth are missing and that none are worn down. If they're worn they would probably look rounded. If the gears are bad the saw is more than likely not worth repair. Ryobi saws are not very expensive compared to the cost of repair parts.
They look different in their shape where the battery goes so I would say no. To be safe always use the charger from the same manufacturer. There are a few different types of batteries too so it is always best to use the model number of your original charger to search for the replacement.
The Ryobi RJ160V does not have a clutch, it has a direct drive system: the armature has a gear pressed on the end of it that turns a bevel gear with an off-set pin on it. This pin fits into a slot on the end of the saw bar assembly which is what you attach the blade to. If you have slipping it could be stripped armature gear teeth or bevel gear teeth or both or the pin on the bevel gear is broke off.
There are 2 types of clamps that hold the blade in that type of saw.
Since this is an older one it most likely has the type where the blade is held in place with a set screw and a "U" shaped piece of metal that holds the blade tight against the shaft. There should be a screw hole in the shaft of the saw. The blade rest next to the shaft and then the metal piece clamps the blade against the shaft. This is all held in place by a set screw that screws into the shaft. This screw uses a hex key to remove and tighten it.
If your tool doesn't have this style then it should have a twisting clamp. This will rotate and release the blade. Sometimes a pliers is needed to loosen the collar, but not to tight tho.
As a result of the power being on to the attached light I knew it was not a power source problem so I took the fuse area cover off(with the machine unplugged) and saw there were no loose connections in that area. I then removed the front control area where the two swithes for the saw and light were. I took off the two wires on the saw switch and then plugged the saw in and jumped the two wires together. The saw worked!!!!!!. I then changed the light switch over to the saw switch location and the switch works . It appears it was a faulty switch. Today I will call the Dremel 1-800- number and order a new switch.