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Craftsman Garage Opener Clicks only and LED blinking 5 times

My 1/2 HP Model 139.53641SRT opener clicks to all my remotes open button (I have no wall mount) but the motor does not move. The LED next to the green "Learn" button blinks 5 times and pauses for 2 seconds continuously after I hit the open/close button on my 3 button remote model 139.53779 (LED does not blink right after I re-plug in AC power). http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/garages/msg012015459574.html indicates a 5 blinks is a diagnostic for ""RPM sensor or motor overload".
I verified obstruction sensor works and aligned. I also opened the opener housing and verified the motor gear to be fine. Is there anyway to checkout the motor and the RPM sensor?

(Right before the opener stops working, I open the garage door and accidentally hit a button on the 3 button remote that I normally don't use to close it about 5 minutes later and the opener started to act that way. I tried holding the same button for 2 seconds just in case that is the "locked" button for vacation and the opener still behaves the same. I wanted to make sure that I did not accidentally lock up the opener by hitting a wrong button on my remote and end up replacing the opener if someone out there can tell me how to unlock it. I have no owner manual because the opener and remotes came with the house.)

Thanks for your help.

I also replaced the gear drive on my 41A-5021-E 1/2 HP LiftMaster Garage Door Opener.

After following instructions carefully, the door moves about 3 inches and reverses same. The chain not yet installed so not related to any door problems (binding, etc.).

I have also centered the position (up and down travel limit) switch so not related to where it is at.

Makes no difference using wall switch or remotes.

Both sensors 'see' each other and are glowing brightly. I put something in their way and the lights blink properly, so appears not to be sensor related.

If I unplug the unit and let it set for a few minutes and plug it back in, the green led next to the 'learn' button is off, but upon attempting to open the door with either wall switch or remote, the led blinks 5 times, waits 2-3 seconds and repeats. Unplug and replug and same thing happens.

Is the '5 Blink Led' a 'trouble' code?

HELP!

Posted by on

  • krimes Apr 06, 2009

    I replaced a gear inside my 1/2 hp garage door opener. When I went to plug it back in there was a pop inside the unit and now all I get is a LED flashing 5 times and a few clicks inside the unit when the button is pushed. Did you ever come up with a solution to this?

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Just fixed this problem tonight. Had the 5 blink/flash thing. Opened it up and saw that the motor wasn't spinning so it wasn't a bad rpm sensor. Jumped the red to black and then the blue to black to verify motor worked. At that point assumed it was the logic board not telling the motor to start, but I could hear the click of the relay. Pulled the logic board out and noticed a solder joint that had failed directly behind one of the relays. Resoldered that joint and the garage door opener worked again like a dream. Hope that helps someone else.

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

  • 16 more comments 
  • fruitcake120 Dec 12, 2010

    Opener clicks nothing happened, 5 flashes code. Found the solder joint on the board bad, resoldered works great !!!!!!!! Thanks Billjacko

  • jhunter888 Feb 14, 2011

    Thanks for this post ... my issue problem was exactly as you described.
    I had a failed solder joint behind the relay. Works fine now after I soldered the joint back. (Joint behind the relay.
    Thanks so much.

  • marzgtp Mar 08, 2011

    Do you have to take the unit down to fix this?

  • alang399 Sep 02, 2011

    Same problem, door went up fine, but won't go down, only hear a click in it when I hit the button. I can jumper the motor wires and verified the motor still runs. I get five flashes from the green led. I also found a bad solder on the board for a relay, fixed the solder and works again.

    THANK YOU

  • mike davies Jan 30, 2012

    Thanks for the info Mine too !! Blinking 5 times Pulled the logic board out and noticed a solder joint that had failed directly behind one of the relays. Resoldered that joint and the garage door opener worked again like a dream. THANKS for the Info would have never looked for that tiny weak solder joint !!

  • app_3rp12323
    app_3rp12323 Mar 12, 2012

    wow, seems to be a common theme! I am a divorced woman who never had to deal with this sort of problem and I had the same exact problem these descriptions and directions were specific enough that with a little soldering help from a friend, I am back in business! THANK YOU!!

  • dbodden1019
    dbodden1019 May 03, 2012

    Took me a while to find this post but I'm glad I did. Saved me the cost of a new opener. I would have never found that on my own but once I read this it was a breeze. Thanks a million.

  • dbodden1019
    dbodden1019 May 03, 2012

    Thanks a million. Would have never found this on my own but with this post I was able to save the cost of a new opener.

  • Alan Polansky
    Alan Polansky May 04, 2012

    My Craftsman 1/2 HP also had the same problem, and the same solution. Thanks! One of the smaller relays joints needed to be soldered in the back. Looking at it closely, there was a lack of solder and the relay didn't appear to be making contact. I didn't pull out the whole board because of all the internal wire connections, I just partially pulled out the logic board and did the soldering. Works fine now. How can so many have the exact same issue?

  • BBS Boy Jul 16, 2012

    Same problem with my 1998 Craftsman Opener. I would never have looked at the solder joint had I not read this SUPER USEFUL post. I took my board out and look a few times to finally find the melted away solder joint. Put some new new soldier on, reconnect everything and saved myself a couple hundred bucks for a new opener! Thanks a lot!

  • Donna Sep 20, 2012

    Holy cow! Thanks for this posting! We started having this same problem with a LiftMaster 1280R. It was intermittent (probably as the solder was disintegrating) but eventually failed. Pulled the board out and inspected the solders - yup! One failed solder! Repaired and reseated the board - good as new! (Just a note - our lights failed as well due to the bad solder job, in case anyone sees the above symptoms + no lights, although they hear the 'click' as the signal registers at the unit.)

  • Homer S Dec 15, 2012

    Same symptoms on mine. Same solution - bad solder joint repaired. Thanks a bunch!

  • mw13068 May 04, 2013

    billjacko, thanks so much for posting the information! My garage door opener has been on the fritz for months, and 30 minutes after finding your comment, it is FIXED. A cold solder joint under the big white relay on the logic board was the problem.

  • Elrod Jetson
    Elrod Jetson Apr 10, 2014

    My logic board had a weak soder joint as well. The large white relay appears to be passing AC current perhaps to the capicitor to operate the motor? Not sure without a schamatic. Anyhow, I guess after many years of pasing high current the solder became unstable and sure enough, resodering that one tiny connection fixed my issue. Thanks again!

  • Angus Thomas Sep 15, 2014

    My opener was blinking a five and would click intermittently, thanks to this advice I looked at the board, sure enough a joint had failed, redid it and operating like new.

  • Bob Flesher Jan 04, 2015

    Sad - same symptoms but I couldn't find a bad solder joint. off to buy a new one, I guess.

  • Matt Cox
    Matt Cox Mar 22, 2015

    Couldn't believe it was that easy, soder joint on board, right behind white relay. Looked barely disconnected, but dropped a bit of soder, put it back together and worked great. Thanks so much for this post!

  • Anonymous Dec 19, 2015

    Totally agree with the above comment! Thank you!

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Five flashes indicate motor overheated or RPM sensor Failure. Replace the RPM sensor. If you turned the lock on the green light inside the wall button will be flashing. The wall button still works when the lock is turned on. The lock only turns off remote access. I doubt that the lock is an issue. Here is a link to a liftmaster owners manual http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerweb/pdfdocs/114A3181.pdf

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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My door would not close and there was just a clicking sound when using the remote or the door button. I unplugged the unit, checked everything everyone posted as solutions. Had 5 blinking green lights from the unit. I replaced the cog in the unit 3 years ago and probably put on too much grease. What worked this time was using a tooth brush and cleared some excess grease off the circuit board. Unplugged and plugged again and it worked. Hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 25, 2013

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Same issue, however I found the end bracket for the screw track to be loose; over torquing the motor. Remounted it, reset the fault by unplugging the unit. and all OK

Posted on Feb 27, 2013

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Have you replaced the battery in the keypad? Try this:

Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this and then walk over to the keypad and key in any 4 digit code you like and press enter.

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If one of your neighbors remote controls is inadvertently programmed into your receiver, you door will open when their remote is activated. If this happens you will need to clear out your receiver and reprogram your remote controls. Press and hold the smart/learn button for 6 seconds or until you see the small LED light near the button turn itself off. If the above steps have been followed and the symptoms continue, there may be an electronic short in either the wall control button or the receiver logic board. In this case, remove the wall control wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the motor unit. Should the symptoms persist after the wires are removed, replace the receiver logic board. If the symptoms stop with the wall control wires removed from the motor unit, replace the wall control button, and the wires leading to the wall control button.


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See if this works for your car.

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