Water dispensing by itself without anyone touching the dispenser!
Replaced water inlet solonoid, but now water dispenser is dispensing water all by itself every few minutes (without anyone touching the dispenser).... At the time this happens, I can hear the water inlet solonoid getting activated.....don't know what to do!!! plz help
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You have 2 separate valves, 1 for the water dispenser and 1 for the ice maker. (otherwise your ice maker would overflow every time you got water from the dispenser and your dispenser would flow every time the ice maker went to refill.) They are fed from the same tubing.
The cube/crushed ice motor is completely separate from the ice maker itself and should have absolutely no bearing on the water flow.
You have narrowed down the problem quite nicely to the ice maker water valve. There is one more thing to check though, the connector. There should be a multi-contact connector from the ice maker to the back wall of the freezer, usually 6-9 wires. Pull that apart and check the cord side (ice maker side) for any corrosion. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE OTHER SIDE AS THERE IS LIVE 110V!!! If you don't see any corrosion, still try try disconnecting and reconnecting 5-10 times and see if that solves your problem. If you see corrosion, unplug the refrigerator before working on the back wall part of the connector. [This connector besides powering the ice maker also allows the ice maker to control the water valve which can't be inside the freezer]
May 15, 2012 - Uploaded by RepairClinic.com
This video demonstrates how to test a water inlet valve on a refrigerator. ... Ice maker or water dispenser not ...
Could be 2 possible problem areas for your problem. 1st there is a small switch inside the dispenser area that when you press for water the switch closes and sends power to the water inlet valve which then opens and lets water come out. That switch could be stuck and needs replaced. 2nd, the actual water inlet valve could be stuck open and if it is then it needs replaced. The inlet valve is the plastic valve the house water line connects up to on the refrigerator. It will usually have 4 wires plugged on to it. 2 of them are for water dispense and 2 are for water to the ice maker. Will also be 2 plastic tubes attached to it along with the house water line. Not hard to replace but make sure you don't get anything mixed up.
Where you hook the house water line is to the water inlet valve which is a one in two out solonoid controlled valve. One side goes to the water dispenser in the door and the other hooks to the ice maker connection.
So I suspect the long water line you are talking about has had the lines switched at the valve and needs reversed. The long line probably goes up the back of the unit and connects to the ice maker. The one for the water dispenser should hook to the water chiller resevoir and then to the water dispenser.
Since you have already replaced the water inlet valve , at the bottom of the freezer door ( remove the kick plate ) , there will be a water line . Follow this line , about 6 " to a connector . Push in on the white ring and pull out the line , at the same time . Activate the water dispensor pad and see if water flows from the line under the refrig . If it does , then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . There is also a water dispensor heater kit , pt # WR49X10173 , which comes with installation instructions .
OK, i would start by checking the lines to see if they are frozen over. if the lines are OK, move on to the inlet valve.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Ok, if the valve test is negetive, the culprit will be the dispenser board itself. have it replaced asap, if possible.
Ajay, couple of things you want to check. First thing is to check the reservoir itself. Remove the drawers on the refer side and see if the tubing is frozen up. It will be on the back side of the refer compartment. Take a hair dryer and go lightly across the plastic coils for a while and then try to dispense the water. The ice-maker line and water line are seperate. As long as you hear the water lever paddle making the switch, you should be ok there. Next would be the valve itself. You can ohm it out, check for continuity or take a cheater cord 120V. across the terminals and see if the valve operates. Be very carefull with the cheater as you are working with live voltage...Catriver..post back.