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For the saw to start it needs 3 things. 1. fresh fuel. If the fuel it is older than 2 months dump it out and put in fresh fuel. Next it needs air. Check the air filter. If you hold it up to a light you should be able to see light through it. If not clean or replace it. Last it needs spark. Pull out the plug and let it touch the saw so it makes ground. Pull the starter cord and you should see the spark jump the gap in dim light. If no spark the points and /or the condenser have failed. They are under the flywheel. You will need a fly wheel puller to get to those. To remove the fly wheel you must take off the nut. To do this must keep the fly wheel from turning. I have stuffed some rope that will not shed particles into the spark plug hole. Then put your wrench on the nut and spin it off. Use the puller to remove the fly wheel. The points and condenser are usually in a metal box to keep them clean. You will need to know the proper point gap. You can measure the gap fully open with a feeler gauge and set the new points to the same gap. Reassemble and the saw will run.
Check coil pic up or the electrical pick up in the pull string housing. Remove that and u will see the fly wheel next to that is the electrical pick up .look at fly wheel make sure magnets are clean surface ,they are in the fly wheel itself.after that remove coil and clean surface that faces fly wheel. Using a match book cover place it between fly wheel and coil ,make sure it moves but not falls out snug ,tighten coil screws and remove match book cover. If it dose it again re place coil look for small engine shop in your area and the can help get u a new one .weak spark means coil,sparkplug
To properly check the coil takes an expensive machine. Coils have a very low failure rate. However, if you doubt the coil, they are not terribly expensive. If you swap the coil make sure to properly set the air gap (distance from the fly wheel) and clean the area the coil mounts. Failure to get a good ground at the mounting location will prevent the coil from performing properly.
Hello there, the correct 'air gap' between the magnet and the ignition unit is around 0.25mm (or 0.010") Use a feeler gauge to achieve this setting and use the power of the magnet to sandwich the feeler gauge between the magnet and both poles of the ignition unit. There should be sufficient clearance around the mounting screws to achieve this. If your still having problems check for sideways and up / down movement of the flywheel / crankshaft. If you have movement here and it isn't a loose flywheel on the crankshaft, the main bearings are probably shot.
Clean the spark plug with a wire brush or better, replace it. Replace the points and condensor that are under the fly wheel. You will need to know the proper gap for the points measured with a feeler gauge.
worse case is that it is the ignition coil itself. the only way to test it is to install it on the machine and do not hook up the kill wires and try and start if it shows spark then there is a short in the saw(ie. chaft wire or broken wire) if it doesnt show spark you know for sure its the coil.
Parser does not like Eager Beâver, I meant what you knew. LOL
Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when flywheel is rotated. HTH
Need more help reply below. Good Luck.