I have taped and checked now, cleaned and retaped wires, re installed, plugs are in right now, the push protect comes on just now and again, would it be in the stereo itself now you think or the speakers?
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Electrical control to the wiper motor are also stuck in "on". It could be the switch, or the relay for power to the wiper motor or a short somewhere to a positive source of power. You should be able to remove the wire connection to the wiper motor, but protect it from shorting on any body metal (ground) or negative. by with tape on the end. Until you get the problem sorted out.
Just got one of these in. Same problem. You may not have to purchase parts for this one. If you can open the back cover,(there will be two wires still connected to cover upon opening, remove these, to actually pull cover off) be careful. You will find a power supply board on the left side. Take the power supply out. (Be sure your TV has not been plugged in for about 4 hours to reduce shock.) You will need to resolder the pins on resistor RP 12. I found a bad ground. Also resolder pins on Transfomer T2 and T3( these are yellow boxes on top of board). We are are soldering under the board of coarse. Now on the right side of the power supply board, find the signal board. You will see four grounding strips taped in black. Purchase at hardware store, metal tape (used for taping duct work). Retape the four ground straps, while pressing down on these springing ground straps. Many, many times a bad ground will cause problems as described. Replace boards and cover and cover wires (as mentioned on removal). If you cannot do this, take this info to a TV tech. Let me know how this works. Thanks for asking, sincerely Matt of Martins TV Repair.
You PUSH the POWER control (OFF) because it is self protecting.
Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or
marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is
running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.
Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as another possible root cause for intermittent shutdown.
Protect only comes on when an RCA is grounding out, speaker is blown or
the speaker wires are shorting out. Check all your wiring on the head unit and see if all are insulated with
tape or better and if there's an exposed wire, tape it up. Make sure
that all connections are secured. Then double-check your fuses. Check all of your speakers and their wiring because going into protect
mode is the units way of saying you have a problem with your speakers
If your speakers and wiring all check out, disconnect your radio wiring harness, and then reconnect the harness. This resets your radio, and your radio should be working again.
If you need to enter the security code, try the default unlock code of 5227.
You can also try to reset your code if the default doesn't work. Try 'KCAR' or '3051'.
let me guess, it's a trition v8 engine? I'm right?! Common problem. Threads are stripped. Need to take it in. They can do several things to fix this problem, they are cheapest to most expensive. Retap the hole and fit larger plug in. Retap hole, making it wider then orginal then adding a ring, (sorry brain fart can't think of what it's called) so that the factory plug will fit again. Replace head. My suggestion is adding the ring. I want to say flex coil? Don't quote me on it cuz I don't do these projects. Hands aren't steady enough for this task.
sometimes its easier just to take it all back out and re-wire it step-by-step. i know sometimes one or two wires might be mixed up (positive going to negative). also, check your power wire, (either black or red) and make sure its tight . green - ground wire - check to see if its tight. power wire - usually has a fuse block attached - check the fuse. somestimes when you tape wires they may come apart - i always put on wire-nuts, better connection.
hope this helps!
You have a shorted speaker wire or a blown speaker. The unit is protecting itself from damage. Did you install it? if so, pull the deck and check your connections. If they all seem fine, disconnect one speaker at a time, and turn on the radio. Make sure the radio speaker wires are taped so they don't short and cause more damage. Test each speaker wire until you find which one is causing the problem. Now re-connect all the other speakers and test. Next, disconnect the speaker wire right at the speaker that's giving you a problem, tape it off, then re connect it to the receiver. now test again. If all is ok, you have a bad speaker, if not run a test wire from the radio to the possible bad speaker and test again. If the speaker plays, you know what the problem is, replace the bad wire. Most often it's a door speaker wire or a wire got pinched during installation and took a while to short. Hope this helps
i supose the am fm radio just dosnt cut it anymore well lets give this a try . first u must disconnect positive battery cable so you dont short any wires . remove screws that hold in factory radio pull radio out a feww inches as no to rip out any wires.next you must locate positive 12 volt power supply wire usually red or orange .if not shure connect battry cable again and use a 12 volt test light by attaching the ground cable on the test light to a good clean metal bracket under dashboard or connect to a black groundwire with a screw into the steel under dash next probe the wires goin into the factory radio ur looking to find power 12 volts once you have found the correct power wire use tape and mark it this will be the power wire for your new stereo next u must figure out what wires for what speakers osually 2 wires per speaker 2 rear speakers and 2 front speakers meaning a total of 8 wires follw me so far ? now disconect car battry again so not to have sparks and cut or disconnect remaining wires speakers first label all with tape and mark front right front left rear left rear right there is a + and - the wire with the stripe on it is usually the + the other wire is the - being negitive ground . this operation is important in order for your fade ballance controlls to work properly now with your new cd player inhand look and see what wire is gonna be 12 volt most times its red with a fuse eg white plastic connector small fuse inside there it a must proper fuse to protect new cd player now there will be a black negative this will go to the matal ground area under dash close to where cd player goes into dash red to the orig taped 12 volt supply now ur spks one pos+ and one neg or common to each speaker now make all conections with stereo before you push stereo into dash you must hook up car battry leaving cd player hanging out so you can make wire changes if you wish on the speakers you need to use one pos front right or rear right + with one common or neg black - to the spkr the same common or ground or - whatever its called one common or neg can be used for all spkrs .good luck tape and solder all connections after you feel all is good im sorry this is all the help i can offer you be careful