Question about Maytag Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i would start by checking the power to the dryer there should be 110 volts ac from common to L1 and 110 volts ac from common to L2 and 220 from L1 to L2. If you are not familiar with either AC current or a volt meter call a tech. if that is good there is often a high temp safty thermostat some where on the unit. if it doesnt read continuity on your ohm meter than replace the safty thermistat. how ever there is usualy anohter underlying issue. check your venting and make sure it is clear. that is the most common reason for a safty thermo to fail. hope this helps
Posted on Sep 25, 2007
SOURCE: dryer belt replacement
remove the front panel. you may need to remove a kick panel below the front panel. the top panel connects to the front panel by some plastic push in retainers (you can loosen them with a screwdriver) You need to prop the top panel up. the belt goes over the top of the drum down to a drive wheel that is located at the bottom of the dryer.
Posted on Jul 07, 2008
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
maytag performa dryer Model PDGT910AWW
"No Heat" complaint.
Firstly, make sure that you have selected/ascertained a "Heat" setting, then read the checklist below provided by; www.repairclinic.com
They also provide disassembly diagrams and repair parts..
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Gas valve coils
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Posted on Oct 05, 2010
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