Question about GE Ovens
We were smelling gas in the kitchen when we weren't using anything. We called the gas company and the gas guy tracked the leak to the little red shut off valve on the pressure regulator. It is a GE model JGBS22BEA2WH and this is this part: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=214551. He flipped the valve a couple of times and it stopped leaking, so he left. But a couple of days later we smelled it again. So I opened the oven door and the oven was full of gas (strong smell). I was just going to replace this valve, but I was unsure if there are special things I need to do, like sealing the connections properly. Also is this valve leaking because it is broken, or is there some other part causing this to leak.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: new gas valve, new gas smell
CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...
Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.
Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.
Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!
To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted. (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
Posted on Oct 11, 2007
I will rarely say "call a professional" here because this is a do it yourself site right?
However, in this case, you obviously have a gas leak and/or malfunctioning gas valve.
Unless you have experience and training in detecting gas leaks I highly recommend shutting the gas off to the unit, ventilating the area, and calling a pro.
Gas can be very dangerous if handled improperly and a mere spark can "make house go kaboom".
If you are smelling it strong enough that you have to open windows, it is a potentially dangerous situation.
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
either the orfices are dirty or you lack enough air to completely burn the gas,you might want to have a tech from the gas supplier look into adjusting air flow or cleaning orfices
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
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