I turned the breaker off, unscrewed and removed the old element but the two wires that the new one plugs into are hard to get a hold of. They just are not that long. Anyone have suggestions? I tried to hold it with a needle nose plyers but when I get one hooked up it comes undone when I try to plug in the other.
Do you have to access it from the back of the oven? I'm working from the inside.
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Re: replacing bottom element on kitchenaid kesc207
Yes, you can slide the oven out and get behind it.
remove the screws in the lower back panel. To make it easier on yourself, install the NEW element and secure it so that it cant move while you are "pushing" the wires onto it from behind.
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You should have an access plate on top and at bottom. Before removing the covers, turn off the breaker that controls the water heater. Now unscrew the top cover. There may be some insulation covering the thermostat (the control that shows the temperature to heat the water to). Move any insulation out of the way and you should see a red button on the front of the thermostat. Press the button. You may feel a click, you may not. Now go over and turn the breaker back on and listen to the heater. KEEP HANDS AND EVERYTHING CLEAR OF THE THERMOSTAT IN THE OPENING.
Do you hearing gurgling or whining? This would indicate it is heating water. If you hear it, turn the breaker back off and put any insulation back in and replace the access cover. Go back and turn on the breaker and you are done. If you didn't hear anything now it is time to pull the lower access cover. Make sure the breaker is off and remove the lower cover. Repeat by removing insulation and pressing the button. Test by turning on the circuit breaker REMAINING AWAY FROM THE ACCESS.
If this time you hear hissing/gurgling/whining sounds it is on. Turn off the breaker, replace the insulation and replace the access. Now turn the breaker back on and you are done. If after all this you get nothing. It is time for a voltmeter and caution.
YOU ARE GOING TO WORK WITH HIGH AMPERAGE AC-IT IS DEADLY. RESPECT EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH AS IF IT WERE HOT.
HAVE SOMEONE WITH YOU WHO CAN FLIP THE BREAKER IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE. THEY SHOULDNT TOUCH YOU UNTIL THE BREAKER IS OFF OR THEY COULD ALSO BE ELECTROCUTED.
You will need to remove each access door (with the circuit breaker off) and make it to where you can test for voltage on the power connections to the elements. Start at the bottom as this is the initial element powered by the unit. Put your voltmeter on a high scale (500VAC is good but it must be set to minimum 300VAC-High is fine-lower is bad) and put your probes on the 2 phillips head screws/bolts that the electrical wires connect on. You should see apx 220-240 VAC. If not, test from one screw to the metal fame of the tank where you see the green wire bolted to. You should see 110-120 VAC. If no voltage is at the bottom, the top reset isn't working. Try resetting the top thermostat again. Test for voltage at bottom. No luck? It may be time to replace the top thermostat/control. All major hardware stores sell them. Disconnect the wires and it should slide up and off the unit. Replace it.
If there is voltage at the bottom then the element is most like gone bad. To test this, turn off the breaker and unhook one of the screws that holds the power wire to one side of the element. Put your voltmeter on Ohms and test for a connection (continuity). If it shows a reading the element may be working or it may just have a small connection internally and fail when it is powered up. This is a tough one to diagnose outside the tank but if you see no connection (no reading) the element has broken in the tank and removal and replacement is in order. Turn off the water to the tank along with the breaker. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank and drain the water out. Disconnect the wires and with a large element removal tool (you might get away with a large channel lock but if you round off the element you will hate yourself) remove the element. You can get the remover at the hardware stores for $8-10. The elements usually have their wattage on the end so replace it with the same wattage element. Reverse the process and lastly turn on the water, check for leaks then turn the circuit breaker back on. You should hear a hissing/gurgling/whining sound as the element heats up. good luck and BE SAFE!
Very simple to change out. With the range breaker turned off,remove the oven racks. Unscrew the 2 fasteners holding the element to the back of the oven cavity. Carefully pull the ends out of the holes. Disconnect the wire from each end. Be careful not to let the wires fall back into the holes. Connect the wires to the new element. Insert the elemnt ends into the holes and re-fasten the screws. EZPZ
Unplug your range or turn off the circuit breaker for the range, Remove the oven racks. Use a phillips screwdriver or a 1/4 inch hex wrench to unscrew the retaining screws at the back of the oven cavity holding the element in place. Carefully pull the element out of the slots to unhook the wires. Make certain the wires do not go back into the holes. Attach the wires to the new element and insert the terminal ends into the holes and replace the screws. Turn the power back on. If the wires accidentally go back into the holes you will have to pull the range out and remove the rear panel to retrieve the wires.
This is a common problem and easy repair. Locate the model number onside the oven door frame. Purchase the element based on the model number. TURN OFF the power to the oven. Unscrew the 2 screws inside the oven holding the element to the back wall. Gently pull the element forward. The wires will be short.Remove the wires from the broken element. Place them on the new element. Re-insert the element terminals and attach the screws. TURN ON the power. Bake me some cookies and send them to me.
Hi, UNPLUG the oven! Remove the screws that hold the element in and pull it toward you. Hopefully they were kind enough to give you plenty of wire to pull it out. Then just unplug old element and plug in new one. Some models have a screws on the element to hold the wire on to it. I hope this helps. Please let me kow if I can assist you further.
From what I've read, the igniter is most often the problem and was with my KitchenAid Supra oven, Here are some details to help you do the actual repair by knowing where everything is located.
1. The oven has 2 igniters: one for the broiler (located at top inside of oven) and one the "overall" oven igniter (located underneath the heat shield on bottom of oven; remove 4 screws to get to it).
2. Do visual test to see if your broiler igniter works versus your oven igniter. It will glow orange if working. This is a good way to focus on the source of the problem (i.e., if no glow, then it may very well be the igniter).
3. Order new igniter. The site repairclinic.com shipped mine very fast.
4. To install: pull oven away from wall, unplug, and remove inside panel on back (not entire back panel but, rather, panel that is in the middle of the back). Here, you can access one of the two igniter wires. You can access the other wire by removing the storage shelf on the bottom of the oven. Snap the old ones off. Unscrew the igniter from inside the oven, Snake new wires through back.Screw new igniter in place. Put everything back in place and you are done!
pretty much be sure to turn the breaker off first some you can do from in side the oven some you have to pull the back panel try from inside first remove the screws then see if you can pull the element through enough to plug and unplug the wires if not then you will have to remove the back panel to un plug the wires either way no biggie i appericate your rating that will fix it
Most likely, your lower heating element has failed and needs to be replaced.
This is a simple step-by-step procedure...
1. Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker panel. Or slide the oven ahead and reach behind to unplug the power cord.
2. Take out the two screws holding the element bracket in place. These will be on the back wall of the oven. They are usually hex head or phillips screws.
3. Carefully pull the element toward you a little bit until you see the two wires behind it. Unscrew the wire leads and remove the bad heating element.
4. Handle the new element carefully while you attach the wire leads to it with the old screws. Don't stretch the wires any more than you have to.
5. Line up the new element while tucking the wires back in place. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the bracket and the back wall.
6. Fasten the bracket screws, making sure they're tight.
7. Restore power to the appliance and start your oven to check if the new element heats up.
A few things to remember...
You are working with high voltage! Be sure the power is off or the oven is unplugged!
If you find one of the wires has come off the old element, simply reconnect and check your oven. Your old element may work again and you will not need to purchase a new one.
In removing any of the screws mentioned above, note that they may be difficult to lossen due to years of exposure to heat. Don't give up, they will eventually loosen.
Your new element may have some oil or other gunk on it due to the manufacturing process. Once it begins to heat, it may start to smoke. Don't panic! Any residue will eventually burn away and the smoke will cease from then on.