I turned the breaker off, unscrewed and removed the old element but the two wires that the new one plugs into are hard to get a hold of. They just are not that long. Anyone have suggestions? I tried to hold it with a needle nose plyers but when I get one hooked up it comes undone when I try to plug in the other.
Do you have to access it from the back of the oven? I'm working from the inside.
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Re: replacing bottom element on kitchenaid kesc207
Yes, you can slide the oven out and get behind it.
remove the screws in the lower back panel. To make it easier on yourself, install the NEW element and secure it so that it cant move while you are "pushing" the wires onto it from behind.
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You should have an access plate on top and at bottom. Before removing the covers, turn off the breaker that controls the water heater. Now unscrew the top cover. There may be some insulation covering the thermostat (the control that shows the temperature to heat the water to). Move any insulation out of the way and you should see a red button on the front of the thermostat. Press the button. You may feel a click, you may not. Now go over and turn the breaker back on and listen to the heater. KEEP HANDS AND EVERYTHING CLEAR OF THE THERMOSTAT IN THE OPENING.
Do you hearing gurgling or whining? This would indicate it is heating water. If you hear it, turn the breaker back off and put any insulation back in and replace the access cover. Go back and turn on the breaker and you are done. If you didn't hear anything now it is time to pull the lower access cover. Make sure the breaker is off and remove the lower cover. Repeat by removing insulation and pressing the button. Test by turning on the circuit breaker REMAINING AWAY FROM THE ACCESS.
If this time you hear hissing/gurgling/whining sounds it is on. Turn off the breaker, replace the insulation and replace the access. Now turn the breaker back on and you are done. If after all this you get nothing. It is time for a voltmeter and caution.
YOU ARE GOING TO WORK WITH HIGH AMPERAGE AC-IT IS DEADLY. RESPECT EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH AS IF IT WERE HOT.
HAVE SOMEONE WITH YOU WHO CAN FLIP THE BREAKER IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE. THEY SHOULDNT TOUCH YOU UNTIL THE BREAKER IS OFF OR THEY COULD ALSO BE ELECTROCUTED.
You will need to remove each access door (with the circuit breaker off) and make it to where you can test for voltage on the power connections to the elements. Start at the bottom as this is the initial element powered by the unit. Put your voltmeter on a high scale (500VAC is good but it must be set to minimum 300VAC-High is fine-lower is bad) and put your probes on the 2 phillips head screws/bolts that the electrical wires connect on. You should see apx 220-240 VAC. If not, test from one screw to the metal fame of the tank where you see the green wire bolted to. You should see 110-120 VAC. If no voltage is at the bottom, the top reset isn't working. Try resetting the top thermostat again. Test for voltage at bottom. No luck? It may be time to replace the top thermostat/control. All major hardware stores sell them. Disconnect the wires and it should slide up and off the unit. Replace it.
If there is voltage at the bottom then the element is most like gone bad. To test this, turn off the breaker and unhook one of the screws that holds the power wire to one side of the element. Put your voltmeter on Ohms and test for a connection (continuity). If it shows a reading the element may be working or it may just have a small connection internally and fail when it is powered up. This is a tough one to diagnose outside the tank but if you see no connection (no reading) the element has broken in the tank and removal and replacement is in order. Turn off the water to the tank along with the breaker. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank and drain the water out. Disconnect the wires and with a large element removal tool (you might get away with a large channel lock but if you round off the element you will hate yourself) remove the element. You can get the remover at the hardware stores for $8-10. The elements usually have their wattage on the end so replace it with the same wattage element. Reverse the process and lastly turn on the water, check for leaks then turn the circuit breaker back on. You should hear a hissing/gurgling/whining sound as the element heats up. good luck and BE SAFE!
Most likely you have a bad heater, element or regulator, first turn off the breaker and look at the wires in the connector box on the heater, if they have no stripped insulation make sure the wire nuts are tight and are touching metal on the end of the wires, if there is insulation between the wires remove it. Next remove the covers off the heating elements and with an ohm meter on ohms and power off disconnect one wire from heating element touch one end of the element to the metal on the heater and the other end of the tester on the heating element screw, check both screws for contact tact for this test, if you get a reading the element is bad. This does happenon new heaters as well as old. Next try the bottom heating element taking off one wire and doing the same, if you get a reading there then it's the element that’s bad. Next touch the ohm meter to the two screws with one wire on the element not touching the one disconnected wire you should get a slight reading, the meter will move maybe an inch, however if it moves all away over to the opposite side it means the element is shorted out and will have to be replaced, At this time if it does any of the above call the company you bought it from it's under warranty. Put it back together and let them replace it at no charge to you. However if you want to fix it yourself them supplying the part turn off the heater water and power and drain the tank then buy the socket that fits the element then unscrew it and replace it with a new one. Once it is installed open the water valve on the hot side in the bathroom or kitchen depending whichever is closest and wait for all air to be out of the system.
Once the air is out then turn heater back on. Hydrogen sulfide gas can cause an explosion that is why it is important to have the tank full before turning on power to the heating element. This is especially so for gas operated heaters and where you have well water.
Very simple to change out. With the range breaker turned off,remove the oven racks. Unscrew the 2 fasteners holding the element to the back of the oven cavity. Carefully pull the ends out of the holes. Disconnect the wire from each end. Be careful not to let the wires fall back into the holes. Connect the wires to the new element. Insert the elemnt ends into the holes and re-fasten the screws. EZPZ
Hi The possibilities are a bad Bake element, a broken wire to the Bake element or a bad control board. You have to remove the Bake element or to pull the range off the wall to perform the troubleshooting and find out which part is bad. You have to inspect the wires, then remove the wires from the Bake element and check the element for continuity. If there is nothing wrong then you have to check for 120VAC between each wire and ground and for 240VAC between the wires while the control calls for Bake. If there is no proper voltage then the control board has to be replaced.
However To remove old element, there are 2 bolts/screws on the back of the oven, attached to the element. There will be a silver bar holding the screws/bolts to the back of the oven. Remove these screws/bolts with either a screwdriver or pliers by turning to the left. After unscrewing the bolts, pull element out. It will have the electrical wires attached to it with a clamp on each side. Pull wire clamps up to remove the element. Remove new element from box. Slide new element clamps up into the wires coming out from the back of your oven. (There will be "legs" to hold the element up from the bottom of the oven. These go on the bottom for support of the element). Tighten existing screws/bolts onto oven through the holes in silver bracket. Do not tighten too much, just make sure is secured. Turn electricity breaker on and plug oven into outlet. Turn on to 350 and see if it heats up. Let us know if you want something more else accept the solution. Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Unplug your range or turn off the circuit breaker for the range, Remove the oven racks. Use a phillips screwdriver or a 1/4 inch hex wrench to unscrew the retaining screws at the back of the oven cavity holding the element in place. Carefully pull the element out of the slots to unhook the wires. Make certain the wires do not go back into the holes. Attach the wires to the new element and insert the terminal ends into the holes and replace the screws. Turn the power back on. If the wires accidentally go back into the holes you will have to pull the range out and remove the rear panel to retrieve the wires.
You will need the model number of the machine, Once you have the model number, you can call a parts store to get the part you need.
When you have the part. Very important! First Turn off the power to the machine at the breaker box or sometimes called fuse box.
There are usualy 2 screws holding the bake element in, Remove them and pull the element out untill you see the end of the element and wires attached to them. NOTE : Go slow. You will see the wires at the end of the element. Just take a look at the new one to see what it will look like. Next, remove the wires from the old bake element, they are either screwed on or cliped on with a spade terminal. Take the old bake element and new element and make sure they match. now put the wires on the new bake element and reinstall. Then you can turn the power back on and test.
It would be very unlikely that both elements went out at the same time. Is it possible that one element went out a long time again and went unnoticed?
Do this: Turn your oven on BROIL and the temperature up all the way and see if the top element begins heating.
Then turn it on COOK and see if the bottom element comes on.
If both elements fail to work then your problem may be in the selector or thermostat control. You may also have a wire that has come loose (or burned loose).
If you are comfortable working with electricity, you can turn the circuit breaker off and remove the controls for testing. Also, verify that all the wires are properly attached.
If you are not comfortable, have a service technician check it out immediately. It scares me that there may be a loose wire behind the control panel!
If one of the elements worked and one did not then the problem is "most likely" a bad element. Turn off the circuit breaker to your oven and make sure all the knobs are off on the oven and you can remove the element and take it to a parts store for replacement.
It is easy to remove. Take out the wire shelves and unscrew the screws where the element goes into the back of the cooking cabinet. There will be some wires attached which should pull off.
If the new element is good then the next thing to check is the selector knob (COOK/BROIL) and the thermostat for the oven.
To check the thermostat, turn the selector to BROIL and turn the thermostat up until the top element begins to heat. Let it heat up a little then turn the thermostat down until it clicks off. If this works then your thermostat is working.
The problem then must be your selector control. Remove and replace (turn power off at circuit breaker box first!).
Of course, if the thermostat won't turn on the upper element either then it must be the thermostat.
There is a possibility also that a loose/broken/burned wire is causing the problem. You should check for this when you open up the control panel (after turning off the circuit breaker!).
if you feel through the insulation you can find the two wires that attach to the element pull them through to plug the element back on but there is no plug per say but first are you sure the element is good were there no wires on the element when you removed it should have been two spade connectors with wires on them attached to the element hold my rating till you reply