Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
I have an 11 yo whirlpool refrigerator (ED20ZK) that suddenly stopped cooling, but still runs. It didn't cool for two days then all of a sudden started working again. When I moved the temperature control settings back down to normal levels, it shut off and has again stopped cooling (even though a can hear the fan/blower working). What do you suppose the problem is, and, is it worth fixing vs. replacing the unit?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This usually indicates that the compressor is working too hard and drawing too much current. The click that you hear is a safety shut-off. Possible causes of this are numerous and usually require having a professional come in to fix the issue, it can range anywhere from a faulty compressor to a bad start relay.
There is in most cases a temporary fix, it is called a hard start relay/capacitor. It is usually available from an appliance parts retailer for around $15 to $20. Installation instructions are included, just be sure to unplug your refrigerator first and make sure that someone following you can repair from where you left off. This relay assembly can normally get you up and running but it should not be used as a permanent fix. This will not correct for a refrigerant leak in the system.
Check your refrigerator owners manual before making any repairs or modifications to your refrigerator, there may be an extended warranty on the sealed system and compressor.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
Here is your problem:
There are two temperature sensor wires; one should be routed around the vent on the upper left corner of the "ceiling" of the fridge. It will route inside the plastic cover in the back upper corner.
The second one is critical. It originates inside the cover and must pass through the wall of the fridge into the freezer and rest just inside a hole in the rectangle that passes through from one side to the other. If the very tip of this sensor is not well inside the freezer, the system will think the freezer is too warm, never turn off and the lovours inside the plastic housing described above will jam with ice and get stuck. This piece will have to be replaced but will continue to freeze and break until the sensors are placed in the correct locations. Don't ask me how I know all this.
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling
You model if the ARB1950C has a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment and behind the temperature control panel. Need to see if you can manualy turn the timer clockwise until the compressor stops. During that time of 25 minutes the freezer should be in defrost. I believe your timer needs replaced based on how you explained what is happening. The part number for your timer is 67001036 and can be found at the links below. If it stays longer that 25 minutes then it's sticking in the defrost section of the defrost timer and will need to be replaced. If your refrigerator does not restart after about 25 minutes then slowly turn the timer through the opening in the plastic cover. There may be a plug covering the hole to make the hole not so visible. If you should have problems fell free to let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
You have a bad overload/relay . This is the piece pluged onto the side of the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . The part number is 8201786 . It is easily replaceable and instructions come with it . Price is around $60.00 .
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
SOURCE: not cooling
your ptc overload on your compressor has gone out and needs replacement,locate the compressor and unplug the overload off the compressor and take it to an appliance parts place and purchase the correct replacement ptc overload and plug it back in and your good to go
Posted on Jun 18, 2010
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